A cultural history of Goa, on horseback

Ever since man domesticated the horse, around 4,000 BC, the animal has played an important role in his life. Goa has a special connect with the animal, as this tiny Aparanta, which sits on the shores of the Arabian Sea, was one of the three Konkan ports known to be involved in trade of Arabian horses. This some thousand-odd years ago!Goa was the main trans-shipment port for pilgrims heading to Mecca and for Arabian horses to the subcontinent. Arab travellers would bringing horses to the port of Goa from where they would be taken to the Ghat region.This is how Ashvem, in Mandrem, got its name. In Surla, Bicholim, a laterite pathway known as ‘Ghodyachi Paaz' reminds us about the horse trade that once flourished in the area. And from Pernem to Canacona, one can find horses engraved on sculptures of warriors, and even worshipped by devotees.As far as the rest of the sub-continent went, it was the Aryans that popularized the use of the equine species in social and religious life, though reference to the animal can be found in the Rigveda.In the Puranas, it is related that the horse evolved from the foot of Lord Brahma. And much later, Kautilya, in his ‘Arthashastra' wrote about food, fodder and health aspects pertaining to the horse.Coming back to Goa, there are several beliefs prevalent with regard to the horse.The animal is considered to be the symbolic representation of wind, light and sea foam created by waves. Tradition requires one seeking blessings of Lord Shani to worship a horseshoe. There is a strong belief that the horse possesses foresight, which makes it privy to incidents well before they actually play out. Then, as a protection against ghosts and evil spirits, amulets powered by hair taken from the tail of a horse are used.The influence of the horse is not limited to prevalent beliefs, though. It is also felt in the social and cultural sphere of the Goan milieu.As horses played an important role in warfare, victorious warriors returning home on horseback would be welcomed by villagers by a procession marked with folk music. "Possibly, it is because of this practice that the tradition of Ghodemodni, the folk dance, evolved in Goa and in regions in its vicinity. The dance form sees artistes mounted on backs of wooden horses effigies performing a dance to the tune of folk music played on indigenous instruments. We worship the people riding these wooden effigies," says Ramchandra Gaonkar, 68, a folk artiste from Morle-Deulwada, Sattari.During Shigmo, the Ghodemodni is performed in many villages in Sattari, Dharbandora, Bicholim and Pernem as also in Dodamarg, Maharashtra.In the religious context, too, the presence of the horse is felt. The forest-dwelling Velip community worships a folk deity called Paikdev, whose sculpture always depicts him on horseback. These people invoke Paikdev in their times of need and when their wishes are fulfilled they make offerings of clay horse idols."In Saturli of Gaondongorim in Canacona, people make offerings of the votive horse figures made from baked clay to the presiding deity of the sacred grove called Paika Pann," says Sanjay Gaonkar, a folk researcher from Amona, Canacona.The folk deity Betal is worshipped in the temple at Amona. The sculpture of the idol shows Betal on horseback, holding a sword. There is strong belief among villagers of Amona that Betal, mounted on his horse, travels throughout the village, guarding its boundaries at night.The stone sculptures of the folk deity Ravalnath always show the deity mounted on horseback. Numbers of panels of Gajalaxmi have been found in various parts of Goa. These panels depicted battle scenes and show well-equipped horses. In the Kamleshwar temple of Korgao, Pernem, a stone idol of a horse is worshiped.Some Goan fairs and festivals, whether Hindu or Christian celebrations, also revere the horse. In Casavali, during the feast of Rement Saibin, three horses are revered by devotees.