Another lost trekking season in Kashmir

SRINAGAR: For nearly two decades, adventure tourism transformed Kashmir’s mountains into a magnet for high-end domestic tourists and foreign visitors. Trekkers crossed alpine meadows, glacier-fed valleys and mountaineers climbed Kolahoi peak, turning the sector into one of the Valley’s fastest-growing tourism industries. Much of that activity has now fallen silent.

After last year’s Pahalgam terror attack and Operation Sindoor, all trekking routes across Kashmir have been closed, bringing the Valley’s once-booming adventure tourism industry to a near standstill.

“Adventure tourism picked up in Kashmir in a major way over the past two decades and became an essential part of Kashmir tourism. But for the past year, it is dead,” Rouf Tramboo, president of the winter games association and well-known mountaineer of the Valley, said.

From his office overlooking Dal Lake, Tramboo said the govt promoted trekking in a big way in the past six years, encouraging local entrepreneurs to invest heavily in camping equipment, trekking logistics and mountaineering infrastructure. A tourism department official said the govt opened up more trekking routes in the Valley after Article 370’s abrogation, taking the number to 75. Even forest huts were made available for visitors.

Over time, tourists streamed in, especially from Southeast Asian countries, who were less affected by security-related travel advisories than those from Europe and the US. “Our trekking season is from June to Oct. With the prolonged closure (after the Pahalgam attack), we have effectively lost this year,” he said.

Key routes included Kashmir Great Lakes Trek -- a 70km trail through alpine lakes, glacial streams, meadows and mountain passes -- Kolahoi Glacier Trek, Tarsar Marsar Trek, Tosamaidan-Yusmarg Trek and Dara-Pahalgam, an offbeat high-altitude trail linking Srinagar with the lush valleys of Pahalgam. Dara-Sonamarg trail and the Kashmir-Ladakh route, through Warwan Valley in Kishtwar, also drew enthusiasts.

The Great Lakes trek, which climbs to nearly 13,800feet at Harmukh Pass, was the most popular. Aarif, popularly known as Aarif Mountaineer, who runs Cliffhangers India, an adventure tourism company in Kashmir, said the Great Lakes trek led to the opening of other routes.

In 2024, Aarif said his company took at least two groups every week on the Great Lakes trek, generating employment for guides, porters, cooks, ponnywallas and camping staff across villages along the route. Tramboo said his company would engage nearly 2,000 to 2,500 horses every year.

“We would even arrange south Indian food. I had more than 45 staffers and we would hire hundreds of horsemen. Now we are only a five-member team. The Great Lakes Trek was safer as it is surrounded by army camps. We want at least this to be reopened for the industry to survive,” Aarif said.

As the slump deepened, Aari shifted base to Manali. Tramboo now takes trekkers to Ladakh. “I had the option to move out but others are not so lucky. They might give up the business,” Aarif said.

There is little clarity on when the situation might improve. “The decision to open trekking routes is beyond our jurisdiction,” the tourism department official said, adding rafting is now allowed only in Sonamarg and Pahalgam.