How gin became fashionable again

Gin is having a bit of a moment globally and over the last few years, in India as well. From events and festivals centered around the clear spirit to the creation of the country’s first craft gin brand, its growing popularity is being described as a ‘gin-naissance’. While only 1% of the country drinks gin, that’s no small number given India’s population.It means that India is the fifth largest drinker of gin globally.
Bars have noticed its popularity, especially amongst the country’s urban youth. Arijit Bose, a partner at Bar-back collective, a beverage consultancy says, “People who run bars weren’t earlier interested in stocking gin, specifically premium gin. They would say it’s too expensive. Now, people are willing to pay for it.” Bose even organized a gin festival called Gin Sling in Bangalore last year which showcased the different ways in which the spirit can be consumed, other than just a simple gin and tonic. Over the course of the weekend, 1,200 gin-enthusiasts visited the festival.
Anand Virmani, founder of Nao Spirits, has created India’s first craft gins— Better Than, a London dry gin, and Hapusa, a botanical-infused gin. “Two million cases of gin are sold in the country yearly, most of those being low-end gins. However, the premium gin market has seen growth of 33% from 2016 to 2017, which is incredible to see,” he says.
The global resurgence of gin has a huge role to play in its popularity in India, says Ruhi Batra, a 36-year-old music publicist who has been drinking gin regularly for the last seven years or so. Batra says, “Gin is seeing a revival the world over. In the UK, there has been a massive resurgence, with more artisanal brands coming in. As people travel and drink more, those influences come back home with them.”
And it’s not just a tipple for women. “Both men and women drink it, unlike vodka and whiskey which tend to swing towards one gender,” she says.
Virmani attributes its popularity to rise of cocktail culture in India. He says, “Many classic cocktails are in vogue and most of these were being made in the 1920’s and 30’s in the US during prohibition, a time when gin was the leading spirit. Gin is integral to cocktail culture.” It’s also quite versatile so it’s no surprise that it’s getting so much bartender love.