Kolkata’s heritage is its biggest asset: Iftekhar Ahsan

For over two decades, Iftekhar Ahsan has reintroduced Kolkata to itself through his initiative, Calcutta Walks. While interpreting city streets, stories, food and forgotten corners through immersive walks and heritage-led experiences, Ahsan has helped shape a growing culture of heritage appreciation – long before it became fashionable. That’s what makes him a Changemaker. For him, Kolkata will forever be the city that has “poetry on the streets that need to be embraced while engaging all senses.” During a walk around the city to celebrate 25 years of Calcutta Times, he talks about Kolkata’s distinctive ‘texture’ and more.

The accessible, visible and self-aware Kolkata
Ahsan notes that while it’s easy to dwell on Kolkata’s shortcomings, the past 25 years have also seen clear progress. He points to improved public spaces, stronger accessibility and a renewed celebration of heritage. “The Indian Museum is a better version of itself. Maidan is a better version of itself. The riverfront is so much better. Now there are walkways around the riverfront,” he says, adding that the expanding Metro network has also made the city more accessible. For someone who began conducting walks long before heritage trails became popular, the cultural shift has been especially satisfying. He recalls starting out when “nobody was doing walks”. Now people see heritage walks as a way to promote the city – and that is very heartening, he
explains, adding, “I feel proud that we were somewhat pioneers in starting city walks.”

‘Heritage is the city’s greatest asset, not burden’
Iftekhar says what is needed is not nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake, but a more imaginative model of conservation – one where government bodies, institutions, entrepreneurs and citizens all play a role. “Kolkata needs a flexible playbook that allows heritage to be
reused and reimagined. The city’s heritage is its greatest asset. But many people see it as a burden because we don’t have role models, guidelines or a playbook to follow,” he said. To beat
this, citizen participation is crucial. Ahsan’s own work – through city walks and heritage-led spaces – reflects this philosophy.


A city connected like a village

One of Kolkata’s greatest strengths, Ahsan says, is that it still feels as connected as a village in an increasingly impersonal urban world. Beyond architecture and atmosphere, what often leaves the deepest impression on visitors is the city’s humanity. Time and again, guests from around the world remark on the kindness they encounter on its streets. “I keep hearing from guests from different parts of the world that people here are so nice even when nobody has to be nice,” he says. “People are kind, they have time for each other. Despite living in a fast-moving urban environment, they have managed to retain the softness and warmth that comes from living in a community. That sense of community is something everyone notices and everyone loves.”

A Kolkata, 25 years from now
And if he had to imagine Kolkata 25 years from now? Ahsan’s answer is characteristically lyrical. He doesn’t want the city to become the biggest, glossiest or most anonymous urban centre. Instead, he hopes it remains something far rarer. “I want a Kolkata which manages to retain as much of its character and charm as possible and yet move into a modern world that is not the nameless, faceless kind of city.” That idea of a “boutique city” — textured, intimate and distinctive — lies at the heart of his vision. “We don’t have to be the largest or fanciest,” he says. “We can be the most boutique city in the world.” For Ahsan, the ideal Kolkata is one that preserves its quirks while embracing modern conveniences.

Kolkata has a unique texture and tapestry. Social media has helped people rediscover and share its beauty, and those of us who love the city must showcase it
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