Miles apart, a taste of Lucknow in Kol

Lucknow: Kolkata and Lucknow, despite being hundreds of km apart, share an unbreakable bond over food and culture. Kolkata's famous aloo biryani, a distinct, fragrant, and light dish characterized by the addition of large, marinated, and soft-cooked potatoes alongside marinated meat, has a strong Lucknow flavour that's now woven into the city's culinary identity.Exiled to Kolkata, Wajid Ali Shah settled in Metiabruz by the Hooghly River, and recreated a ‘Chota Lucknow' – a nostalgic tribute to his beloved Gomti and homeland. Kolkata's biryani is a tribute to Wajid Ali Shah's resourcefulness as his cooks swapped mutton with potatoes due to budget constraints, birthing the iconic aloo biryani.This historical link was highlighted during the Taana-Baana Lucknow–Calcutta session at the Mahindra Sanatkada Lucknow Festival. Designer and curator Srila Chatterjee, social brand founder Subrata Pandey, and Italian ethnologist Paola Manfredi, who is known for working on chikankari, sat down with historian Nimra Rizvi and Naseem Iqtidar Ali to unpack how Wajid Ali Shah kept Lucknow's culture alive in Kolkata after his exile in the 1860s. The Nawab arrived with a posse of 6,000 people, including chefs, tailors, musicians, gardeners, paan sellers, goldsmiths, and water carriers. These people introduced Lucknow's traditions to Kolkata — from Kathak and thumri music to kite flying, pigeon racing, refined etiquette and royal food.Designer and curator Srila Chatterjee said that the story of Wajid Ali Shah is also a lesson in cultural survival. Social brand founder Subrata Pandey said Lucknow represents tahzeeb and elegance, while Kolkata stands for intellectual debate and discussion. Italian ethnologist Paola Manfredi said traditional Lucknow embroidery and symbols, especially the fish motif, played a major role in shaping royal identity and textile design. Researcher Anindya Banerjee said that while links based on Mughal-Awadhi culture, trade and British colonial administration existed earlier, the Nawab's arrival in Kolkata transformed these connections. She noted that Awadhi architecture, cuisine and court culture were transplanted to Matiabruj, with a strong emphasis on music and the performing arts. The locality emerged as a centre for Hindustani classical music, thumri, kathak and Urdu poetry.