Doria Pamphilj Gallery

A grand 17th century palace on Via del Corso houses one of the most valuable private art collections in the world. While some of the building is still the private residence of the aristocratic Doria-Pamphili family, their collection of paintings is open to the public. The paintings are displayed in dazzling, opulent rooms, which are works of art in themselves, filled with mirrors and chandeliers. The most famous masterpiece, Velazquez’s insightful portrait of Pope Innocent X, is often described as the greatest portrait ever painted. According to one story, when confronted with his portrait, Innocent X was unsettled and exclaimed ‘Troppo vero!’ (‘Too true!’).
This portrait alone would make a visit to the Doria Pamphilj Gallery worthwhile, but it’s far from the only masterpiece in the collection. Other gallery highlights include works by Raphael, Titian, and the Baroque master Caravaggio, such as his sensuous painting of St John the Baptist with a ram. It’s an unorthodox portrayal of the saint, as he reclines languidly and smirks at the viewer, conveying no sense of sin or suffering. Standing in front of Caravaggio’s Penitent Magdalene gives you some idea of just how ahead of his time the artist was; it’s striking for its realism, and wouldn’t look too out of place in a modern art gallery.

Getting there
Get one of the many buses that stop along Via del Corso, or in Piazza Venezia.