Mod-Thai, city-side

Word to the wise: Book ahead, especially if you plan to dine on a Friday or Saturday night. If you'd prefer to drink and snack, head to the downstairs cocktail bar from 4pm daily.

Tipple of choice: With cocktail names like ping pong, camp bitch and bloody Longrain, it seems wrong to order wine.

Sydney restaurants are a transient bunch, and Longrain is one of the few hot city eateries that has stood the test of time, astronomic rent increases, and that nasty credit crunch. Decked out with banquet-style stables that beckon conversation with strangers, this posh Thai joint remains one of the city's most popular eats even after 13 years in business.

Far from pedestrian Thai, expect dishes like smoked kingfish salad with caramelised cashew nut nahm jim and yellow curry of Barossa chicken with crispy egg noodles and pickled mustard greens. The prices aren't Khao San Road-style, either - this is special occasion stuff.