Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos, ex ESMA

Once the Dirty War's most notorious clandestine torture centre
Noteworthy for: Just thirty years ago an estimated 30,000 Argentineans "disappeared" during the military dictatorship. More than 5,000 are believed to have been detained here.

Word to the wise: Tours are by reservation only; call or email visitasguiadas@espaciomemoria.com.ar to book a place.
During the so-called Dirty War, it was in this building that some of the worst atrocities were committed. Used by the military junta, El Proseco, as an illegal detention centre, the thousands of people - men, women, students, journalists, anyone simply suspected of having left-wing beliefs - that "disappeared" between 1976 and 1983 were brought here to be locked up, often facing torture, rape and murder. Pregnant women were detained so their babies could be stolen and handed to supporters of the regime; the women were then killed.

The former Escuela Mecánica de la Armada (ESMA), a navy mechanics school, was the centre of controversy for decades: some wanted it demolished, others called for the museum that now stands here, a space for the remembrance and defense of human rights, dedicated to educating future generations against state terror. Documentary evidence, film, photograph and oral history make up the emotional, yet deeply valuable, two-hour tours of the premises often led by former prisoners.