Kavarna Slavia

Kavarna Slavia is, without a doubt, the most famous café in Prague and for a good reason. First opened in 1884, Kavarna Slavia has seen the march of modern Czech history from the twilight of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to the high water mark of the Czech literary movements in the 1920s, to the Nazi takeover in World War II, to both the rise and fall of communism. During the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Prague was a city divided between German and Czech speakers; Kavarna Slavia was resolutely a Czech café, and so many Czech bohemians, such as composer Bedrich Smetana or Nobel Prize winning poet Jaroslav Seifert, came to Kavarna Slavia.
Kavarna Slavia’s real claim to fame is its days under communism. As one of the only cafes to have not been shut down during the austere communist regime, Kavarna Slavia became a hotspot for young political dissidents against communism, one of whom, Vaclav Havel, a playwright, went on to lead the 1989 Velvet Revolution that toppled communism and become the first president of the Czech Republic. It remained a favourite of Havel’s after the revolution, and if you stop by you’ll quickly see why. Kavarna Slavia retains a certain charm, with art deco styling, smoke-filled air (going against current European trends, Slavia stubbornly holds on to a “smoking welcome” policy), and live music from 5 pm to 11 pm. Prices are surprisingly reasonable for such a famous café, and the variety of coffee specialties on offer is simply bewildering, with everything from Turkish coffee to coffee mixed with absinthe, honey, cardamom, and Viennese whipped cream.