Dhaba by Claridges

Dhaba has tapped into previously unexplored territory—targeting youthful diners looking for quality Indian food at less than five-star prices and an ambience that reeks of irreverence and quirk—and carved a niche that occupies space somewhere between posh and affordable. Keeping their eye on the ball, the food is unwaveringly top-notch, but it’s the design aesthetic that really ups the ante—think trucker slogans, a bar designed to resemble a theka (with cocktails labelled tharra packaged in pauvas et al), tyres on the walls, a vibrant interior which pulls off colour without appearing tacky and engaging graphics, all held together with the undeniably catchy Indian filmy tunes (even Bollywood snoots will find their feet keeping pace with the beat). Hit the theka (bar) for a Narangi (an unlikely concoction of lime juice, masala and whiskey) or laal pari (an Indian version of a bloody mary) before quelling the high with their decadent food. The keema pao is of the melt-in-mouth variety, the balti meat (a rich lamb curry) will literally lull you into a food coma, and the matka kulfi is a deliciously fitting end to the feast. Leave your uppity etiquette at the door, and clamber aboard to join the convoy.