All’s quiet on the Kasauli front

Tucked away in the shadow of Shimla, quiet Kasauli is the anti-thesis of everything that its popular neighbour has become. There’s no ‘mall’ here, crowded with restaurants and shops, no major attractions, and no influx of tourists. Instead, its leafy cobblestone roads wind around 19th-century churches, heritage hotels and cottages and British cemeteries.

Nonetheless, Kasauli’s hushed charms have attracted a fair number of writers and artists over the years. Between 1976 and 1984, artist Vivan Sundaram initiated a series of artist camps, residencies, theatre workshops and workshops here. Organised by the Kasauli Art Centre, these fostered creative exchanges between Indian and foreign artists, filmmakers, critics, playwrights and architects. More recently, the town has played host to the Kasauli Rhythm and Blues Festival and the Khushwant Singh Literary Festival, named after the veteran writer who spent many summers in his cottage here.


What to see As far as sightseeing goes, there isn’t much to do in Kasauli except for long walks along roads lined with chestnut and pine trees. These pedestrian paths are without traffic, so the only sounds you’ll hear and the chattering of birds. If you visit during the rains, you’ll find the hillside draped in several shades of green. Don’t be surprised if you’re engulfed by clouds descending from the heavens every now and then. There are old cottages, some like Hotel Alasia and Hotel Ros Common have been converted into heritage hotels. You can also walk up to the Upper Mall to check out the Kasauli Club, and beyond it, the peaceful Sunset Point for spectacular views. Perhaps the only attraction in Kasauli is the Monkey Point (also locally known as the Manki Point) a Hanuman temple perched on top of a hill in the Air Force Station. Trek up the stairs for panoramic vistas of the surrounding hills.


Established as a cantonment in 1842, Kasauli still has quite a few reminders of the Raj. The 19th-century Christ Church lies at the heart of the town. Opened for service in 1853, this Anglican church still has an imposing grey façade and colourful stained glass windows. The town’s four cemeteries are dotted, wooden pews with weathered graves of officials, soldiers and their family members, who died due to ailments or in wars. Established in 1880, the Kasauli Club was once the focal point of the social life of residing British army and civil officials, with its tennis courts, library, bars and billiard room. A newer structure has now replaced the original building, which was burned to the ground in 2002. Kasauli is also home to its own brewery, which is also one of the earliest in India. Set up in 1830 by British official Edward Dyer, it still manufactures Lion, the oldest beer in the country.


How to reach
Kalka is 325 kms from Delhi and 35 kms from Kasauli. Visitors from Delhi can take the Kalka Shatabdi, and take a taxi or bus to reach Kasauli. Alternatively, take the Kalka-Shimla toy train till Dharampur, from where you can take a 12-km journey to Kasauli on a local bus.

When to visit
Kasauli has pleasant weather all year round. The hills turn a beautiful shade of green during the monsoons.

Where to eat
There are few restaurants in Kasauli outside the hotels. The hot tea and snacks offered by the tiny stalls in the lower bazaar go well with Kasauli’s chilly evenings. The tangy corn on the cob, samosas and pakoras are especially recommended.