The kurta sutra

for the fashion conscious, there are trends to follow every season. from the net dupatta and simple shirt-like lines of the '50s, to the boat-necks and the tight, difficult-to-walk-in kurtas of the '60s and polka dots of the flower era, the kurta keeps changing its shape, length and the number of kalis according to the fancies of the fashion world. though the style always remains the same; the colour and cut changes with every season! for some time now, the salwar kameez and churidar kurta has been replaced by what can be typically called fusion wear.we have witnessed a resurgence of short kurtas worn with loose trousers, even among older women and those with not-so-perfect bodies. jute, khadi, kota, silk, voile and a lot of cotton are the favoured fabrics of 2001. two designers who believe in keeping up with the times but also in holding on to their sense of individuality are sumeeta barve and bijal shah. we like to create simple, understated and elegant designs which will last for a long time. in a way you could say that we make beautiful clothes which make anyone look good, says sumeeta. their label, we'eeves, is about fashion without boundaries. we have played with the concept of translucence to create a little mystery, explains bijal. in fact, for bijal and sumeeta, the entire emphasis and focus has shifted from embellishments, embroidery and details to the cut, silhouette, contours and the juxtaposition of solid and sheer. their fabric fusion is especially interesting. jute and organza, chikan and kota, khadi and jute silk, voile and organza are only some of the combinations the duo has experimented with. the ensembles rely heavily on their simplicity, yet there is extravagant use of chikankari, which was also predominant in their collection last year. emphasis on femininity is strong and colours like rust, green and all shades of blue are predominant. influences from the '80s are everywhere, as the two designers take a light-hearted approach to fashion again. short kurtas with cigarette pants, pencil pants and churidars take a middle ground between minimal chic and dramatic extravagance. interesting cuts are the duo's strong point. one also sees design details like fastenings, buttons, panelling, sequins, tube beads and hand embroidery. the necklines are interesting, the designers do not believe in layering because it just adds bulk to a person's frame. each day bijal and sumeeta look ahead, create new feelings and innovate new details. their designs resurrect the patterns and skills of ancient arts into the rhythm of modern life, keeping the accent always on comfort, wearability and affordability. to know which kurta defines your look here's a ready reckoner to help you: * the lucknowi kurta: similar to the a-line dress, this usually comes with a kali and traditional chikan embroidery. almost anybody can carry it off. * the pheran: wide-bodied and longer in length than the lucknowi kurta the pheran has its roots in kashmir. basically a shapeless garment it is ideal for a woman with a widely spreading figure as it conceals unsightly bulges. * the kalidar kurta: this has its origins in the ghagra/lehnga. kalis or panels are sewn into the waist to widen the flare. can be worn by all kinds of figures. * the mughal kurta: while the lucknowi kurta or the pheran has no restrictive waistlines, the mughal kurta has a clinched waistline, which is sometimes elasticised for convenience. it only looks good on a slender waist and lithe figure. * the anarkali kurta: to the mughal kurta a bolero or bodice was introduced, which heightened the drama. only to be worn for theatrical effect. *the angarkha: this kurta has two flaps, one overlapping the other and tied together by strings. popular with the ancient rajasthanis, the angarkha was really in vogue a couple of years ago but today it is less so.* the front-opened kurta: rather popular in the late eighties, this is not a good style for those with a heavy lower body. * the short kurta: reminiscent of asha parekh's hey-days the short kurta was revived several times. today it is at the height of its popularity and is best teamed with churidars and slim pants. *the straight kurta: the straight kurta is no fuss and suits almost any figure. interesting necklines add to it.*the tunic style short kurta: very haute currently. this kurta is a fashion runway special. very young and trendy.