Nur Jahan's Taj Mahal toMaharani Sita Devi’s Star of South Diamond Necklace:5 lesser-known precious royal Indian jewellery pieces

India’s jewellery heritage continues to inspire modern-day designs and has evolved. Filled with mysterious, rare, yet iconic moments, the jewellery of India has included opulent Mughal-era jewellery to the Chola Dynasty’s temple-inspired gold work. Our Maharajas and Maharanis left historic pieces for us, which to date showcase the unparalleled artistry and vision of the artisans of those days. Even today, we can see their motifs conquering the jewellery streets and echoing through bridal jewellery. So, today we’ll be recounting 5 rare jewellery moments in Indian history, which still feel real and ring iconic even today.

Maharani Sita Devi had a penchant for diamonds, which was no secret. From conducting private shopping meetings to attending events in Paris, she loved her jewellery more than anything in the world. But the highlight of her vanity was the Star of the South diamond necklace, which weighed around 252.5 carats and was later cut to 128.48 carats. It stood as one of the world’s most renowned diamond jewellery pieces and was unearthed in 1853. It was the first Brazilian diamond necklace that instantly gained fame across the globe.

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This iconic and rare beauty was truly one of a kind. Holding a perfect balance of golden and ruby, with frosted diamonds, it looked no less than a celestial dream. This pendant belonged to Mughal Empress Nur Jahan and was a gift from her husband, Emperor Jahangir, around 1627. It was later passed to Shah Jahan, who gave it to his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Years later, it was acquired by actor Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor in 1972 and was sold at an auction in 2011 for $8.8 million.

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The Patiala Ruby Choker was commissioned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala from Cartier in 1931. It was a gift for his wife, Maharani Yashoda Devi. This magnificent piece featured 292 rubies from Burma, 132 natural pearls, and was set with glittering diamonds. It was eventually stolen from his royal treasury and was later found as a short bracelet, which was then restored by Cartier in 2012.

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In celebration of Queen Elizabeth II’s platinum jubilee, the Nizam of Hyderabad issued a stunning necklace. Designed by Cartier and commissioned by Asaf Jah VII, aka the Nizam of Hyderabad, this stunning creation is what dreams are made of. Crafted from 46 diamonds and a statement rose motif, this ceremonial present was primarily created as the Queen’s wedding present but was presented on her platinum jubilee. The necklace, since then, has been worn many times and was lent to a younger member of the royal family.

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Maharaja Khanderao Gaekwad was known for his penchant for sparkling and new gems. He commissioned this design in 1860, which was a seven-strand necklace made of natural pearls and was part of the royal collection for generations. The pristine white pearls came in matching size, shape, and quality and featured 350 identical pearls, which were later reduced to only five strands. It was soon worn by his grandson, Maharaja Pratapsingh Rao Gaekwad, and gained recognition after it was featured in George Frederick Kunz's book titled ‘The Book of Pearl’. The necklace was eventually sold for millions of dollars at a private auction.
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