From Navratna to Panchdhatu: 5 jewellery styles considered sacred in India

It’s time to forget fast fashion and talk about the rich heritage of Indian jewels, with roots that stretch back to ancient times. These are iconic pieces once adorned by warriors, royalty, and even gods. Every design and texture tells a story, ranging from mythological influences to everyday life. The five stunning, sacred jewels we’re exploring today are celebrated for their intricate craftsmanship, vibrant gemstones, and irresistible allure. So, grab your favourite beverage and get ready to be enchanted.

Navratna means nine gems and is deeply rooted in Vedic astrology and mythology. Each gem corresponds to one of the nine planets and, in ancient times, was worn by kings and nobles. During the Mughal era, Navratna pieces were revered for divine protection, cosmic balance, and royal power, with the ruby often placed at the centre. The arrangement of these gems, combined with their quality, holds immense astrological significance, believed to bring good fortune.

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Indian filigree jewellery dates back to the Indus Valley civilisation and shares techniques with ancient Greek craftsmanship. This art form flourished under the Mughal era, particularly in Cuttack, Odisha, where it was reserved for rulers. Today, artisans in regions like Cuttack, Karimnagar, and Telangana continue this tradition, using delicate, twisted wires to weave intricate stories in silver and gold.
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Originating in the Kutch region of Gujarat, Pachchikam jewellery was inspired by European styles from the 16th century. Indian artisans reinterpreted it with gold backs and silver bases, adorning the pieces with semi-precious stones to create distinctive patterns. With a strong focus on silver, this craft evolved as a more accessible form of jewellery, while incorporating details reminiscent of Kundan work.
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Introduced by the Mughals and perfected in Gujarat and Rajasthan, Jadau is one of India’s most celebrated jewellery crafts. The word Jadau means to embed, referring to the technique of setting uncut gemstones and pearls into gold without the use of glue or adhesives. This labour-intensive art form, known for its intricate detailing, transforms plain gold into regal, one-of-a-kind masterpieces. It is not just jewellery, but a living symbol of India’s cultural heritage.
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Kundan jewellery traces its origins to the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, though it truly flourished during the Mughal era. This 2,500-year-old technique involves setting gemstones within a framework of pure 24-karat gold foil, often backed with coloured glass to enhance the brilliance. Once a mark of royalty and opulence, Kundan continues to hold a special place in Indian tradition, cherished as both heirloom and statement adornment.
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