A Winnipeg-based Indigenous clothing company says fast-fashion giant Shein copied and sold dozens of its designs without permission, sparking frustration and anger among staff and artists connected to the brand.
Michelle Cameron, founder and owner of Indigenous Nations Apparel Company (INAC), said she first learned about the alleged copies after customers visiting her store at Winnipeg's Polo Park shopping centre pointed them out on Shein's website.
"We're all really upset about it. A lot of anger's coming from it," Cameron told CBC News.
Her initial reaction was disbelief.
"I was really shocked. And then it turned to anger and disgust," she was reported as saying by CBC News.
According to Cameron, around 20 INAC designs appeared on Shein's platform. Some of the listings allegedly used photos taken directly from INAC, including images featuring staff members and even Cameron's daughter.
"It's even our staff members that they're using [in] their photos. The one picture has my daughter in it. It's absurd," she said.
After contacting Shein, Cameron received an email directing her to the company's complaint process.
She is now seeking legal advice.
For Cameron, the issue goes beyond intellectual property. Many of INAC's designs reflect Indigenous experiences and address the historical and ongoing mistreatment of Indigenous peoples. She said there's a painful irony in seeing artwork about stolen land allegedly copied and sold without permission.
"There's even a design on there that has our company name on it," Cameron said, referring to a shirt featuring a chief's head and the words "established 2021," the year INAC was founded. "So, they even took that."
The design that has affected her most is a shirt created for Red Dress Day, the national day of awareness for missing and murdered Indigenous women, girls, and two-spirit people.
"So much thought [went] into it, and it means something to each and every one of us because we all have Indigenous family members that are missing or murdered," she said.
The image used in Shein's listing for that design reportedly featured Cameron's daughter.
Cameron said people have encouraged her to trademark every design, but doing so would be expensive and not always practical.
"In the apparel world, all [someone has] to do is change a logo by 10 per cent and it is no longer your logo. So, for us to make that financial investment [to trademark everything] doesn't always make sense," she said.
She emphasized that each design represents significant planning and collaboration.
"We usually plan out our designs a year in advance. All of us Indigenous staff, we all gather together and talk about what designs we want to come up with … and what does it mean to us as Indigenous people," she said.
"All the designs that go into our store, there's an Indigenous artist attached to it [and] a royalty that goes back [to them]."
In a statement to CBC News, Shein said sellers on its marketplace must certify that their products do not violate intellectual property rights.
"We take all claims of infringement seriously and act swiftly when valid complaints are raised by IP rights holders," the company said.
Later, the company told CBC News it had removed the listings after becoming aware of the issue.
"Immediately removed the listings from our platform and launched an investigation" after learning the products were being offered by third-party sellers on Shein Marketplace, the company said.
Shein also stated: "We continue to invest in and strengthen our processes to ensure partners adhere to our strict policies."
For Cameron and her team, however, the incident has left a lasting sense of frustration. The designs are more than products — they are personal expressions of Indigenous identity, community, and lived experience.