Murshidabad’s rarest nawabi mangoes take centre stage in Kolkata

Murshidabad’s mangoes have long existed at the intersection of ecology, memory and empire—less a seasonal indulgence than a cultivated archive of taste shaped over centuries. A recent curtain-raiser in Kolkata for the Murshidabad Mango Festival 2026 sought to draw attention to this heritage, even as it quietly underscored how much of it is already under threat. Once, the region is believed to have hosted nearly 200 distinct mango varieties, many developed between the 16th and 17th centuries under royal patronage and the stewardship of trading and artisan communities. Today, nearly 120 of those varieties are said to have disappeared, surviving only in fragmented recollections and a few surviving orchards. Speaking at the event, Pradip Chopra, president of the Murshidabad Heritage Development Society, framed the loss in stark cultural terms. “These mangoes are not just agricultural produce but a form of intangible cultural heritage. Preserving them is a sacred duty,” he said, pointing to historical patronage networks that once sustained this diversity, including figures such as Dwarakanath Tagore. He also noted ongoing efforts to revive the species base through large-scale propagation: “Around 20,000 saplings of rare varieties are being prepared for plantation this year. Rather than functioning as a marketplace, this festival is our effort to build awareness and strengthen supply chains by encouraging visitors to travel to Murshidabad’s orchards to experience the mangoes in their place of origin.” The historical framing was expanded by Sanjay Dugar, shibayat of Kathgola Palace and Gardens, who located mango cultivation within Murshidabad’s broader imperial past. He described the region as once the capital of undivided Bengal, contributing an estimated five per cent of global GDP and nearly a quarter of India’s GDP. “Mango cultivation here was experimental and artistic,” he said, adding that varieties were historically shaped through careful crossbreeding with floral and fruit influences. “Champa, scented like the champa flower; Anaras, noted for its pineapple-like tang, and Kohitur, regarded as one of the most delicate mangoes in the world, so sensitive that it is traditionally wrapped in cotton to prevent bruising.” He also noted that several varieties had been revived through private cultivation efforts in heritage gardens, and that fruits served at the tasting session were sourced directly from these orchards. Beyond heritage and history, the event also featured medical commentary. Dr Sanjay Kumar Gupta, ENT specialist, offered a counterpoint to popular dietary anxieties around mango consumption. “Mangoes are rich in antioxidants, fibre, and vitamins A and E, and may help regulate cholesterol levels by lowering LDL and raising HDL. Many people don’t know that it is also an anti-cancer fruit.” He further added, “Just like Kolkata, other cities should also take initiatives in hosting such events.” The preview brought together several rare cultivars including Kohitur, Rani, Bimli, Kala Pahar, Bombai, Mulayamjaam, Dilpasand, Chandankosa, Rogni and Saranga—many of which are now rarely encountered outside Murshidabad. These were paired with traditional preparations such as aam panna, kacha aam kheer, mango sandesh, chutneys and seasonal sherbets rooted in Sheherwali culinary traditions. For attendees, the experience often went beyond taste into cultural discovery. Independent journalist and author Sona Bahadur, who attended the preview, said the festival opened up an unfamiliar landscape for her. “I never knew about this culture and tasted varieties from Saranga to Kohitur. Champa was my favourite. These events act as a pollinator for people to gain knowledge and connections,” she said, adding that she had travelled from Bombay for the event. Another attendee, Sandip Nowlakhan, emphasised the cultural dimension of mango diversity. “Many people are unaware of the delicacy and diversity of Murshidabad mangoes. Festivals like these help spread awareness and keep our culture alive,” he said. Reflecting on the intent behind the initiative, Pragya Chopra noted the cultural marginality of Murshidabad despite its layered history. She said the festival aimed to present its mango heritage in a curated, experiential form. “What better than spending a summer evening tasting mangoes and dishes made from them,” she said, adding that even long-time participants discovered unfamiliar varieties during the event.The month-long festival continues in Murshidabad through June, with orchard walks, tastings and cultural activities designed to reconnect audiences with a horticultural tradition shaped by royal courts, merchant communities and generations of growers. Organisers emphasised that the focus remains on awareness, conservation and lived experience, rather than commercial promotion, as the region seeks to safeguard one of Bengal’s most distinctive seasonal legacies.