Celebrating Khirai: The flower basket of Bengal

Spread along the banks of the Kangsabati river, Khirai in East Midnapore is the place to be this Saraswati Puja, thanks to its fields of marigolds, chrysanthemums, and dahlias in riotous colours. While no one knows the exact number of flowers that go out to the other cities and states every day, locals peg that number at almost 8 lakh per variety, with Saraswati Puja to Valentine’s Day phase being the most hectic. CT took a tour of the Flower Valley of Bengal to find out about the yield, numbers, varieties of flowers and more. Read on... Khirai: The gateway of flowersThe true flower belt stretches beyond Khirai into villages such as Paschim Kolla, Jakpur, and Radhamohanpur and Janabar. “Khirai may host the flower exhibition and see the most visitors, but it’s these surrounding villages that nurture the blossoms,” said Susanta Samanta, a farmer from Janabar. Khirai’s real beauty: The people themselvesAround Khirai, the village’s dry, homespun humour is as striking as the flowers. While showing us around, a local man casually asked our guide, “Ora phool kinte esche na ki jomeen?”– a withering aside on camera-toting visitors. Later, at the flower exhibition, when we noted most stalls were run by women, pat came the reply: “Aapni ki kono cheler haat theke phool neben, ba tiara porben?” Though villagers are exasperated by vloggers and selfie-seekers trampling their plots, the farmers themselves remain disarmingly kind. When it’s time to leave, they hand over a generous bunch with a warm, “Didi, eta barir jonno niye jao.” A day in the life of a farmerPre-dawn: Farmers enter misty fields at first light, the blooms still heavy with dewEarly morning: Tending, watering, and inspecting rows with precisionLate morning: Return home for household chores and a short restAfternoon (around 2 pm): Back in the fields as the sun softens; cutting mature blooms & nurturing new budsDusk: Harvested flowers are gathered and carried homeEvening: Flowers are strung into garlands by handNightfall: Bundles of chrysanthemum, marigold and gladiolus are loaded onto trucks and trains, headed for city marketsTravel Tips for KhiraiBest time to visit: Late December to mid-February; peak bloom and Saraswati Puja add colour and festivity. Arrive 7–9 am for soft light and smaller crowds.Explore on foot: Fields are walkable from the station. Stroll to fully enjoy colours and scents, but respect working plots—ask before entering and avoid stepping on flowers.Photography etiquette: Always seek permission, especially for close-ups. A smile and kind word go a long way; you may even be invited deeper into the fields.Pro tip: Weekday mornings are quieter than weekends, offering more time to chat with farmers and enjoy the blooms at your own pace.Coloured dahlias and roses steal the show At the Khirai flower exhibition, stall owner Lakshmi Samanta notes a clear shift in demand. “People now want flowers that look good in pictures,” she says, pointing to her vivid dahlias and rainbow-hued roses. Bright colours and unusual shades sell best. While marigolds and chrysanthemums remain festival staples, photographers and social media visitors prefer coloured dahlias and roses. “We usually colour it in the evening,” she adds.Most spotted flowers Saraswati Puja to Valentine’s Day is peak bloom and tourist season. One can also learn how to make tiaras or just tie the flowers here. Vistors say it is very therapeutic– Sulekha Mal, flower-seller at KhiraiThere is a demand for exotic flowers especially those from Thailand, mainly for weddingsThe combination of uncertain earnings and changing weather has made the new generation hesitant to carry on the trade. “It’s hard work with little support from the government,” said Manabindra Jana, a farmer, “And the climate has become so unpredictable – you never know when it will pour and when it will be unbearably hot.”