Bidriware artisans seek protection from brand misuse

Vijayawada: The intricate artistry of Bidriware, a 14th-century metal craft known for its delicate silver inlay on a jet-black surface, has once again come into the spotlight as traditional artisans seek to safeguard the heritage of the craft from commercial misuse by modern brands.Originating in the historic city of Bidar during the rule of the Bahmani Sultanate, Bidriware is celebrated worldwide for its distinctive damascening technique, where fine silver patterns are painstakingly inlaid on a specially prepared metal alloy. The craft derives its signature black sheen from a unique process using soil from the Bidar fort, a method passed down through generations of hereditary artisans.However, artisans fear that the growing commercialisation of the craft's identity could dilute its authenticity and threaten livelihoods. Several artisans from Bidar — including Abdul Hameed, Md Aqeel, Md Habeebuddin, Md Mohsin and Md Muqeem — raised concerns over the use of the name "Bidri" by large retail brands to market products that they claim are not made through the traditional process. The issue gained attention after an online eyewear retailer introduced a collection branded as "Bidri", drawing criticism from artisan communities who argue that the name is closely tied to a centuries-old cultural tradition protected under India's geographical indication framework. The Delhi high court issued a summons to the online marketplace following a suit filed by five traditional artisans from Bidar, Karnataka — Abdul Hameed, Md Aqeel, Md Habeebuddin, Md Mohsin, and Md Muqeem — all residents of Bidri Colony, Bidar, Karnataka.Experts say Bidriware is not merely a decorative art but a cultural legacy. The craft requires days of meticulous manual work, beginning with casting the metal base, engraving patterns, inlaying pure silver wire, and finally oxidising the surface to achieve the characteristic deep black finish that contrasts with the silver motifs. "Bidriware represents the identity and history of Bidar's artisan families," said M Mohan Rao, president of the National Federation for Handlooms and Handicrafts. "Any attempt to commercially exploit the name without involving genuine artisans risks undermining a 600-year-old craft tradition. Protecting the authenticity of GI-tagged crafts is essential not only for preserving heritage but also for sustaining the livelihoods of artisan communities," said Mohan Rao.Artisans say nearly 500 families in Bidar depend on Bidriware production, with many households practising the craft for generations. They argue that the growing availability of mass-produced products marketed under the Bidri label could confuse consumers and erode the market for authentic handmade pieces.For the craftsmen of Bidar, the issue goes beyond commerce. It is about preserving the legacy of a craft that embodies centuries of skill, cultural memory and artistic excellence — a heritage they believe must remain firmly rooted in the hands of those who created it.