Community cooking: Khatri tapelu

SURAT: Every Friday evening, majority of Surat's meat lovers head for the Lakeview Garden at Piplod. Not because it's the weekend but to relish Khatri Tapelu, which the popular kiosk Delhi Durbar serves as Friday special. This mini meal, which consists of rich mutton gravy served with special yeast fermented small puris, is a much loved Surat special.The tapelu takes its name after the large vessel that it is prepared in. Its meat is tender, the bones are loaded with marrow and this gravy is cooked over slow temperature, mainly in the fat of the mutton itself. "No special occasion is complete in our community without this traditional dish. It is okay not to hold a reception, but the wedding is formally acknowledged only post the hosting of a tapelu feast," says Vijay Chevli of Delhi Durbar.
Although its name suggests otherwise, only lip-smacking Surti Khatri dishes are served here. Vijay and his brother Ajay have been running this kiosk for the past 23 years now. "Our father Harshadbhai Ratilal came up with this idea to make famous Khatri dishes available because they are unique in their taste and not commercially available. These are traditional recipes from our home's kitchen taught by our mother Bhanuben, who turned 75 this year. All the food is prepared at home by our wives, we only reheat it here before serving," says Ajay.
Around 50 kilos of Tapelu gets polished off in a mere three hours every Friday. Many book it in advance. Through the week, the Chevli brothers offer other exclusive fare such as bheja fry, kaleji fry, mutton mamnas (Khatri meatballs), besides curried and dry chicken and mutton. These are served with either warm and tender juvar rotlas or bread, along with sliced onions drizzled with a dash of lemon juice. Prices range from Rs 85 to Rs.140 per plate.
A special Khatri black garam masala is used in the preparation of this cuisine, which is one of the basic ingredients that lends a distinct taste to this community's food. The Chevlis source theirs from Vesuwala. The gravies are rich with minced onions and a strong dose of garlic and ginger. Delhi Durbar also prepares other exclusive fare to order such as the seasonal 'Papdi-ma-mutton', which is made during the undhiyu season when fresh and tender papdi is available. Sprinkled with generous portions of green garlic pods and coriander leaves, its a winter must have.