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Dancing with Devils: Panama town relives dark colonial history through festival of Devils and Congos

Last updated on - May 4, 2025, 14:13 IST
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Caribbean style celebrations

Every year, Panamanian town of Portobelo comes to live and hundreds take to the streets for the Festival of Devils and Congos. The festival uses dramatic imagery and bright colors characteristic of Caribbean celebrations to capture the historic struggle between slaves during the time of colonization. (Pic credit: AP)

2/8

Battle between good and evil

It represents the battle between good and evil, where “Congo” characters symbolize self-liberated Black slaves, and “Diablos” (devils) represent the enslaving colonists. The festival serves as a living memory of resistance, channeling the pain and power of the African diaspora through performance. (Pic credit: AP)

3/8

Set in a coastal landscape

Held in the coastal town of Portobelo, nestled between the Caribbean Sea and lush tropical jungles, the setting enhances the vibrant and theatrical nature of the celebration. (Pic credit: AP)

4/8

Echoes of resistance

The stars of this celebration are the Congo, who represent self-liberated blacks, and the devils, the enslavers. (Pic credit: AP)

5/8

History worn on masked faces

Participants wear elaborate red and black masks that blend symbols of the devil and Spanish colonizers. Enslaved individuals don vibrant colors and are safeguarded by angels in white as they pursue the devils in a dance, ultimately transforming their oppressors for the better. (Pic credit: AP)

6/8

​Festival as a living archive

“Los Diablos” wear black and red attire, sporting frightening, tooth-filled masks atop their heads, along with several rows of jingling bells attached to their legs. (Pic credit: AP)​

7/8

Dance with devils

They hop instead of walking, shake whips at passersby and jerk their heads from side to side to keep watch in all directions. (Pic credit: AP)

8/8

​The devil falls, the congo rises

The drama reaches its climax as the Major Devil finds himself at a disadvantage, losing his mask and whip, undergoing a baptism, and being symbolically sold. (Pic credit: AP)

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Copyright © May 24, 2026, 01.52AM IST Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd. All rights reserved. For reprint rights: Times Syndication Service