You can trek up from the Gulmarg bus stand if you like but a more prudent way up involves perching yourself on the back of a pony. After a bone-crunching hour long ride, Khilanmarg emerges in view as a carpeted meadow of flowers in the summer, and a frozen expanse of snow in the winter. There’s some ice in the upper reaches even in the summer months and there are sled-operators who’ll take visitors on hair-raising ride from one end to the other. Scenic views abound from almost any corner—the southeast edge affords magnificent vistas of the twin peaks of Nun and Kun.
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