Jiufen and Jinguanshi 九份與金瓜石

A walk in the clouds through Taiwan’s ‘little Shanghai’
Talk of the town: Thanks to its starring role in Hou Hsiao-Hsien’s (侯孝賢) 1989 movie 'City of Sadness' (悲情城市), Jiufen became a hotspot for its retro Japanese architecture and old-school charm.

Noteworthy for: In the 1930s, Jiufen was so prosperous it was known as ‘Little Shanghai’.
The neighbouring gold mining duo would have both become ghost towns when mining in the area ceased, if it wasn't for the extraordinarily beautiful surroundings and the historically fascinating past. Located roughly 45-minutes from central Taipei, they make for a favourite Taiwanese day trip.

Start the day exploring the Gold Ecological Park of Jinguashi. It became notorious during WWII as the site of the prisoner of war camp Kinkaseki, which you can now visit, though it is hiking through this sleepy, verdant backwater that makes it such a treat.

Head to Jiufen in the afternoon to wander the narrow cobbled lanes, and sip tea at one of the many teahouses lining Jishan Street while admiring the watercolour painting view of Shenao Bay.

To get there, take a train to Rueifang (NTD 78); transfer across the street for a bus to Jinguashan (NTD 45), also passing Jiufen (NTS 20). The 15-minute drive can be done on foot along the challenging Shanjian Road-Keelung Mountain Trail.