Iquitos is an important port city of the Amazon and Peru’s largest jungle town. It is located in the Amazon basin at the confluence of the Nanay and Itaya rivers, about 3,700 km upstream from the Atlantic Ocean and 1,030 km north-northeast of Lima. Surrounded by water on one side and thick Amazon rainforest on the rest, the only way to reach Iquitos is to either fly there, or travel by boat, which takes a full week of floating along the hot and humid Amazon. With a population of 422,000, it is the largest city in the world that is inaccessible by road.
After 1912, rubber production dropped drastically, and the city’s population declined. Iquitos still bears traces of the extravagant taste of the rubber barons: mosaic tiles in Italian-style palaces, the bustling riverside walkway or the Iron House, a famous residence designed by Gustave Eiffel that was built from metal sheets and carried by hundreds of men through the jungle. Those great homes are now faded monuments to the city's glory days, and just blocks from the main square lies the shanty town of Belén District, where families live in ramshackle wooden houses on the banks of the river. Some are propped up by spindly stilts, while others float, tethered to poles, when the river rises 6 m or more.
Although unreachable by roads, the city is not without vehicles. Motorcycles and motocarros—a motorcycle with a small, rickshaw-like passenger cabin in the back—dominate the streets, whizzing manically around as if “an American style biker-gang had taken over a city”. Such is the noise and chaos. Over 250,000 tourists came to visit Iquitos in 2012. For most visitors, the lure of the Amazon rainforest, which encroaches the city on all sides, is the primary attraction. Iquitos has a relaxed, intoxicating feel that's likely to detain you for a couple of days at least.