Tanguería El Beso

Sultry and serious tango
Noteworthy for: The Saturday night Milonga Las Morochas is the most popular evening, but not for the uninitiated.

Word to the wise: The door is unmarked except for the number, but persevere up the stairs and you’ll find your way here.
If you want authentic, serious tango, this is the place to come. Over 2,000 tangueros frequent the milongas and classes here, and while it does attract curious tourists, it doesn't pander to them with any beginner-friendly instructions.

There is a golden glow from the ceiling lamps and an air of a 1940s dancehall, complete with all the traditions. Be careful catching the eye of a milonguero – the cabeceo is the traditional way of asking someone to dance through eye contact and a headnod.

This club belongs to one of the city’s best tango schools, La Academia del Tango Milonguero, and the standard of dancing is incredibly high with some dancers taking it very seriously. It is definitely worth scratching up at one of the classes - where the teaching is excellent at every level - or just reserving a table and watching them slide seductively across the dance floor.