Ode to the past president
Word to the wise: Be sure to wait for the hourly changing of the guard, a fantastic rifle twirling, military marching ceremony.
This grandiose, white marble monument does not come without its controversies. Despite being set amidst open green fields where children play and people practise their Falun Gong, the 700-metre-tall memorial to Taiwan's one-time dictator is a garish reminder of the dark days of Taiwan's recent history. As well as calls to rename it, many also wanted to tear down the imposing bronze statue of the man himself, elevated atop 89-steps in a giant hall guarded by two motionless soldiers with bayonets.
Politics aside, the building, with its octagonal blue roof, is impressive and the Chiang Kao-shek museum on the ground floor offers a subjective yet fascinating history displaying Chiang's medals and uniforms and his bulletproof Cadillac. The monument is flanked by the National Theatre and National Concert Hall, which host local and international concerts, plays and dance performances, and the plazas and gardens here are often full of vibrant local life from free gigs to outdoor exhibits.
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