As a visitor it means you’re able to listen to the wonderful singing of the choir followed by some words of wisdom (in a mix of French and Latin from what I could gather), and smell the powerfully traditional scent of incense burning on the alter, which makes a visit all the richer – I just hope it’s not too bad for the regulars.
Notre Dame is open to the public from early ‘til late and people press through all day past the series of chapels and alcoves for the saints which line the walls. Gold paint and marble have that aged, mottled sheen to them, slightly coloured by years of candle smoke and loving worship. It’s wonderful to feel it being in use though – churches empty of prayer are strange, cold places, but even on a November evening Notre Dame is warm and rosey inside, as well as being serious and formal.
It’s hard to feel the power of a place if you’re surrounded by a crowd snapping photos but if there’s a service about to start as well and incense permeates the famous ceiling and chapels then it’s far easier to remember what this building was built for.
Outside it’s been beautifully cleaned and lit, you can see the twin towers with their retinue of gargoyles and saints and lattice of buttresses for several blocks before the elegant town houses swallow it up.
Visit during the ‘magic hour’ cameramen love when the late afternoon’s natural light gives everything a beautiful glow rather than a golden bath – to make the most of both the beauty of the rose windows and of the lighting once you’ve filed though and outside.
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