Underground partying in Krakow's historic centre

Word to the wise: If the cellar bar gets crammed, which it often does, head upstairs to the beer garden for some fresh air.

Like so many bars and restaurants in Krakow's Old Town, Piwnica Pod Ogródkiem is housed in a gloomy 16th century cellar.

A laid-back café and restaurant during the day (Breton-style crêpes are its specialty), it transforms into a packed party spot in the evenings. An easygoing crowd drinks draught Polish beer and ice-cold shots of Russian or Polish vodka while enjoying loud rock and indie from the last four decades.