Der Schwarze Kölner

Say you don't know the difference between a Krombacher and a Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dark. Show the least bit of curiosity and the friendly bartender at Der Schwarze Kölner will readily say, "Want to taste it?" On tap are 18 German lagers, pilsners, and wheat and dark beers served in the appropriate glassware (from $4 for a 0.3-litre serving of some varieties to $16 for a litre of the priciest brews). This Fort Greene indoor beer garden (there's only a small outdoor seating area) fills up with lively groups of locals at communal tables, served by pretty fräuleins, one of whom might be overheard singing ‘Danke Schoen’. The menu—whose items are all under $8—includes bratwurst, currywurst, a traditional Bavarian cheese spread and soft, finger-singeing-hot pretzels served with a pool of mustard.