Emily and Matt Hyland's relationship was fired by a passion for pizza, so it's only natural that they put their hearts, souls and savings into a pizza parlour. Matt has worked at Public and the Breslin, and diligently studied the intricacies of dough and cheese making before embarking on this partly Kickstarter-funded venture in Clinton Hill. The custom-built wood-burning oven turns out spectacular thin-crust pies charred with blackened splotches, the toppings vibrant and balanced. There are red versions and white versions, meaty combos (pepperoni, sausage and Surryano ham) and farmers' market delights (mushroom and kale). Pastas are robust (trumpets with duck ragu), and vegetable plates include such delicacies as raw, shredded sugar snap peas threaded with Parmesan, bottarga and fresh herbs. The long, narrow space is artistically appointed with metalwork and Joseph Cornell–style wood boxes of kitchenware objects. It all feels considered, right down to the drink options, with wine on tap served by the quartino in measured beakers, craft beer, hard cider and simple yet inventive cocktails.
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