Saint-Gilles

Art Nouveau neighbourhood

Word to the wise: Pick up a leaflet or download a copy of the tourist office's self-guided Art Nouveau walk to learn about the most splendid buildings in the area.

Although Saint-Gilles is where famous Art Nouveau master Victor Horta lived - his home has been preserved as a museum - the neighbourhood is off the tourist track, so those-in-the-know can explore in peace. Perhaps the chief draw here for visitors are some of the Four Brussels townhouses designed by Horta himself, Unesco World Heritage-listed buildings with pioneering, dream-like architecture that still impresses.

But while the grand private Art Nouveau residences of Saint Gilles' well-to-do upper enclave are delightful, there's also another side to the district. Its less wealthy lower reaches, bordering on gritty Marolles, are home to an arty, multicultural population and have both a lively street life and a clutch of nice cafes. The two mismatched parts of the neighbourhood somehow come together neatly at Saint-Gilles church and the square in front of it, which is home to an excellent Saturday market.