An Italian stand-out in a Tex-Mex town

Popular plate: Don't miss the spinach lasagna bolognese, a dish that gets its rich, complex flavor from Tuscan pork sausage and mozzarella made on-site.

When chef-owner Alan Lazarus opened Vespaio in 1998, local foodies were skeptical. South Austinites were used to paying two dollars for breakfast tacos, as opposed to 28 bucks for veal scaloppini. But the restaurant thrived, and it continues to produce artfully crafted house-made pasta, satisfying entrees, and crisp fresh salads from its own garden.

Specialties include Vespaio's bacon-and-egg pizza, a wood-fired pie topped with prosciutto, sunny-side-up eggs, and truffle oil, and for dessert, a smooth mascarpone cheesecake.

With exposed-brick walls and a dark-wood bar, the restaurant feels more like a warm tavern than an upscale Italian restaurant, and draws a relaxed and varied crowd.