Ancient vinoteca bursting with bottles

Word to the wise: Listen to the expert advice of the waiters when ordering wine to accompany your supper; they really know what they are talking about.

Step back in time to sip wine from a fine assortment of 400 quality Italian wines in this charming, old-fashioned vinoteca (wine shop); the walls are lined with wooden shelves sporting hundreds of bottles just begging to be sampled.

Behind the store lies a simple restaurant, looking for all the world like grandma’s drawing room. Here a gastronomic treat awaits of fois gras, patanegra ham, and organic cheeses from local suppliers; the menu is chalked up daily on the board, and there’s also a traditional shiny copper bar selling whiskies and liqueurs.