Beat the city heat the old-fashioned way

Talk of the town: The fan that Princess Letizia used at her wedding to Prince Felipe of Spain came from here.

For over 150 years, Manuel de Diego and his descendants have specialised in hand-making, repairing and selling fans, or abanicos. You can choose from plain to ornate, plastic to wood and budget to lavish. And while they're not cheap, the beautiful fans are works of art.

This deeply traditional shop also stocks umbrellas, walking sticks, parasols, shawls, mantillas (lace veils), ornamental combs and castanets. Service is old-fashioned and the staff can be formal - bordering on grumpy - but it's a glimpse into another age.