Classic Kazimierz without the crowds

Word to the wise: Eszeweria's secluded beer garden is one Kazmierz's best kept secrets.

"An open space for people with interesting ideas" is how Eszeweria describes itself. But the interesting ideas aren't compulsory – just relax and enjoy this authentic slice of Kazimierz.

It's got the boho vibe typical of the area's better-known bars - shabby couches, mismatching chairs, kitsch art and tobacco-stained walls - but unlike some better known places, it isn't overrun with tourists or poseurs, its small crowd of expat regulars comfortably outnumbered by arty locals.