The Yangtze has shaped China in more than just a physical way. Its rich lower banks have been fought over and the beauty of its upper regions, a landscape of pointed karst formations and swirling mists, have been both plundered and admired. This river is the life of China and along its route are ancient cities whispering age old secrets and vying for trade as they have always done, sucking wealth towards the sea, barely an arable inch unused, all feeding the vast population. At first, they’ll be in their very Chinese houses, but as the river flows closer to the hubs of commerce the influence of the west is more dramatic. There are two reasons to pass this way—to see the unique majesty of this remote part of China and to experience its history.

Though the route has been laid down by the river, there is still plenty of choices about the kind of cruise you embark on, the main difference being the duration. The furthest distance will take you from rather ugly Chongqing to fit-to-burst Shanghai, which takes about a week, but understandably there are many shorter options as well.

If you’re travelling the whole route, the first day will likely have excursions to Fengdu, called a ghost city, both because of its great age and because it is where the dead are said to migrate to. There are so many historic relics to this story as to litter the way, the skull like gateway is the first thing you see from the river, but this is also a beautiful region naturally, nearby is the famous Snow Jade Cave and the Han Tombs, yet unfortunately part of Fengdu was flooded by the Three Gorges Dam project, which you hear mutterings of non-stop on these trips.

The second major highlight are the Three Gorges. Cruise boats are able to pass through the number one gorge, called Qutang, which is the narrowest and the most spectacular of the three, followed by Wuxia before entering the dam. It is possible to venture into the narrow passages of the lesser gorges in smaller boats, an excellent way to fully take in the enormousness of this karst scenery.

Past the dam system is Wuhan, cleft by the river like the gorges into three distinct cities joined by the bridges over the Yangtze and the Hanjiang Rivers. Again, it is a place steeped in ancient history, the rivers have always provided the region with farm ripe land. Visit the night market for a glimpse into China’s ancient, thriving heart and some delicious food. Photographers will then thrill at the opportunities to shoot some of the world’s most beautiful scenes, the karst peaks and clefts around Mt. Huangshan, where mist swirls and ancient trees stretch precariously off cliffs like the bonsai that emulate them. Truly unique views and landscape and one of the most amazing sights of a journey down the Yangtze. Before Shanghai, the river flows through Nanjing, another ancient city stewing in its own past.