Part of the charm of all that’s exotic about Arabia, are the formidable forts. The guide introduces the twin-towered Dhayah fort saying, “In 1819 this fort played a large part in the resistance against British attack upon the tribes of Ras al-Khaimah.” Today the reconstructed fort—built of stone, mud-brick and mortar on the location of the old fort—can be visited via an easy-to-negotiate stairway. At the top, two towers face each other within a small courtyard. It’s a remarkable place to visit, especially at sunset, not least for memories of times past, but as much for lush views over the fertile cluster of date palms below.