The Mexican cemita is the more robust and complex cousin of the torta. What better place to wrap your mouth around one than at the authentic Coatzingo (named for a town in the state of Puebla, where the sandwich originated)? The round, seeded buns come from Coatzingo's bakery down the block, ensuring freshness. They're stuffed with meat, mozzarella-like Mexican cheese, avocado, lettuce and tomato, plus a smear of refried beans and smoky chipotle. Breaded chicken or breaded beef is the most classic—the meat pliant, the heat lip-tingling, the crunch of lettuce juxtaposed with the creaminess of the avocado. The 7 train rumbles overhead (the Flushing and Jamaica lines converge here), making this humble, friendly, delicious taquería an accessible destination.