Garba in Goa: State of sunshine on 9 nights

Piety and dancers’ pizzazz of Navratri will hold Goa in their bright swirl from today, as a hallowed tradition of Gujarat keeps nine nights awake around the globe. For Gujaratis who have settled in Goa, the sunshine state’s cultural accommodativeness of Navratri produces waves of festive memories.Lalit Shah, a Panaji resident, was a toddler when he experienced the initial twirl of celebrations in Goa. Sangita Raval came to Goa just a year ago but she too was swept into the joyous whirl of garba.Medium108412832 The custom here is almost as old as Goa. In 1962, a year after the state was liberated, a few members of the Gujarati community organised Navratri programmes at Rajesh Lodge on 18th June Road in Panaji.“Bhogilal Bhaidas Shah, Gordhandas Shah, Vishnudas Shah, and Jayantilal Kamdar were instrumental in making the first Navratri events possible in Goa,” said Lalit who has witnessed the evolution of the festival in Goa since then. He added, “Back in the day, the observances were simple: women sang garbas and offered prayers.”Time begins to danceFrom 1964, only a few years after the inaugural Navratri commemoration in Goa, the festival gradually started sashaying onto the cultural calendars of Margao, Vasco, Porvorim, and Sanquelim.“Technology and times are changing, but Gujaratis still cherish the age-old features of Navratri — wearing the traditional dresses, dancing the garba, and praying,” said Mukesh Patel, a member of Shree Gujarati Samaj. He went on to say, “Navratri holds a special place in the hearts of Gujaratis.”Medium108412834 In the late 1970s, Navratri executed a heartwarming pirouette in Goa, with men too beginning to play garba. However, in keeping with the social norms of that era, the men’s round was separate.“That was a turning point. With men coming into the picture, the festival became big and dandiya became famous for a while in the late 1980s,” said Lalit. “At the time, dandiyas were not available here so we fashioned them out of slim bamboos.”Sanquelim’s Hetal Govekar, 46, who was born in Goa, has noted several transformations in the festival over the decades.Medium108412835 “I remember that women used to sing to the beats of dhols (Indian drums). The rudimentary nature of the revelry was soothing,” she said. “Then came audio cassettes bearing the disco thrum. Folk songs began to acquire the dandiya rhythms. Now, DJs power the circle of joy. Even so, each of the nine nights continues to always open with solemn prayers.”The circle of joy expandsThe Panjim Gujarati Samaj, the flagbearer of the Gujarati community in Goa, moved to progressively bigger sites as garba participants surged. From Rajesh Lodge, the gatherings shifted to Manganlal Sadan (1964-89), Kala Academy (1990-99), Clube Tennis de Gaspar Dias (2000-2010), Mahalaxmi Temple (2011-2019), and Panjim Gymkhana.“The Raythatha family donated a hall in the memory of Hemlataben Raythatha to Panjim Gymkhana on the condition that Navratri is celebrated there,” said Kajal Shah, a former Panjim Gujarati Samaj president. “We have moved the festivities to Panjim Gymkhana permanently. The endowment was a great social contribution from the Raythatha family.”Medium108412837 In the neighbouring precinct, Porvorim Gujarati Samaj (PGS) is known for hosting mega Navratri get-togethers at Pundalik Mandir, with 300 people taking part each night.“Celebrants are encouraged to wear ethnic Indian dresses or formal clothing to respect the festival’s divine origins,” said Raju Patel, a member of PGS. “People from all communities enjoy Navratri with us. We welcome everyone.”The Gujarati community’s inclusivity has drawn the attention of Goa politicians. Manohar Parrikar, when he was the CM, often visited Navratri venues at Vasco, Panaji, and Margao. Digambar Kamat, Vijai Sardesai, Damu Naik and others have also been attendees in various parts of Goa.Medium108412838 The first-time MLA from Aldona, Carlos Alvares Ferreira, recently organised a garba workshop to spread the Navratri cheer among the masses, at Aldona Institute and Sateri Bhagwati Temple.“Even when Parrikar was the defence minister, he came to our mandal. He barely had time but made sure that he took the blessings of the Goddess,” said Mukesh Adhiya, the president of Vasco Gujarati Samaj.Couture for haute nightsIn the late 1970s, women had to plan for Navratri months in advance.“I remember that women used to buy dresses either from Mumbai or Gujarat. In those years, it was difficult to get the clothes for garba in Goa,” Kajal Shah said. “So, whenever our family visited Gujarat, we shopped in bulk.”As the Gujarati population grew in Goa, sellers from Ahmedabad and Mumbai started bringing in clothes to the state.“Things have changed now. Every year when I conduct free workshops, sellers contact me and I allow them to sell on the last day of the workshop so that my group and others have the necessary attire,” said Hetal Gangani, the founder of Rhythm, Garba and Dandiya Workshop.At home in GoaGarba has imprinted itself on the sense of home of Gujaratis in Goa — those from the community who have found jobs elsewhere return to the state for the festival. For others, it is the period of recuperation and reunion.“I feel recharged and rejuvenated. Those who return just for the nine nights probably seek the same effects,” said Gangani. “Even though I am busy with my schedule, I make sure that I dedicate myself to the festival. The feeling is unique.”Amid the merriment lies the chance to learn folk styles of dancing such as Dodhiya, Hudo, Hinch, Titodo, Popatiyu, Morlo, Teen Taali, and Chalti.“Folk garbas are popular and infuse singular varieties into dancing. When I teach these styles, I get in touch with my roots,” Gangani said.Instructions are also imparted in informal settings at housing complexes.“Garba can’t be learnt in a day. I moved into my complex last year and not many knew me. I have been introduced to many people thanks to garba,” said Sangita Raval from Models, Kadamba Plateau. “I conducted workshops for 10 days and now most women here can perform as well as Gujaratis do.”Dharaben Dave, of Casa Amora in the same area, trained some women in her complex.“This is my first year here and since I am proficient at garba, I decided to spread awareness and bring people close,” said Dave. “This is a great way to make friends and develop social relations.”