The Pandavas Owe It To Him

On a visit to the Khatu Shyamji shrine, Sonal Srivastava learns of how Krishna saved the sons of Pandu from losing the warA camel rides past our SUV en route to the Khatu Shyamji Temple in Sikar, Rajasthan. Gradually, the road becomes a narrow stretch with green fields on either side. The undulating landscape merges with the horizon at a distance. I roll down the car window only to feel the warm breeze caress my cheeks. Rajasthan looks like an artist’s palette, full of colours — the rocky Aravallis towering against the green fields and a blue sky. The peace and quiet lasts only till you reach the main shrine,where chaos reigns on the road.Rich In FolkloreThe path leading to the temple is lined with shops selling ritual knickknacks. The temple, made of marble, is located in the heart of the dusty little hamlet called Khatu. Before entering the main shrine, you are expected to visit the Shyam Kund where Khatu Shyam’s idol was found. The shrill voice of bhajan singers trails us as we walk towards the kund or well, to wash our feet before entering the main temple.There are many lores associated with Shyam Baba, as Khatu Shyam is popularly known. Some say that he was Barbareek, the son of Bhim and Ahilawati, a nagkanya, half-snake halfwoman. Barbareek was a brave little boy and when he grew up, Shiva was so impressed by his valour that he gave him three infallible arrows. Agni, the God of Fire, presented him a formidable bow which would bring him victory.At Shyam Kund, the sound of gushing water can be heard from outside. Inside the building, steps go down to the area where water is coming out from what looks like a hole in the wall. I gingerly hold my hand out and place it in the stream of flowing water — it was cold but soothing. The place is absolutely quiet; if you speak, your words echo. You have to watch your step while walking down the broad, slippery stairs. People visit the kund because the head of Shyam Baba was found buried here. It is said that milk started to flow from a cow’s udders when she stood on this spot. After the incident, the place was dug up and the head of Shyam Baba was recovered. Krishna’s Dakshina Another story about Shyam Baba recounts that when he heard of the Mahabharata battle, he decided to take part. He promised his mother that he would join the losing side. On his way to the battlefront, he met a Brahmin who mocked him because he was carrying only three arrows. The Brahmin was Krishna in disguise; he wanted to stop Barbareek from joining the Kauravas as they were losing. After Barbareek demonstrated the power of one of his arrows, Krishna asked for his head as charity. Barbareek wanted the brahmin to disclose his true identity and Krishna revealed his form. According to another legend, Shyamji was Ghatotkach’s son, who gave his head to Krishna. In return, he received a boon that in Kaliyuga, he would be remembered in Krishna’s name (Shyam). After the battle at Kurkshetra was over, the Pandavas were analysing the causes of victory. Krishna suggested that they should ask Barbareek since his head had witnessed the war.Barbareek’s head replied that it was Krishna who won them the war. From the kund, we head back to the main shrine and join the serpentine queue of devotees awaiting their turn for a darshan of their favourite god.Women sing bhajans and the men chant. Many say their prayers silently, hands folded, eyes closed. Moved By Faith Standing in the queue, I realise that it’s faith that makes the world go round — hundreds of devotees in a single thought, expecting a miracle to turn the wheel of fortune in their favour.It doesn’t matter if you are a sceptic or semi-seeker — you are still touched by the faith of those around you. It is said that sometimes the faith of devotees can be so intense in a temple that you can half expect the deity to whisper the guru mantra in your ear. For a moment, I feel that Khatu Shyam is trying to tell me something; only, I can’t hear him above the din. My spiritual imagination is doing the trick.What would he say — “Hello, how are you?” And what if the deity actually speaks to me, I wonder. Gradually, the queue starts moving and I finally get a glimpse of the celebrated deity. He looks handsome with a thick moustache and yellow painted face. A swarm of people rushes to the sanctum sanctorum to get prasadam and to prostrate before Khatu Shyam. When my turn comes, I almost feel like telling him, ‘Dude, it was some effort to get here, but it was worth it.’ As I turn to leave the sanctum, I see him smile at me.