It’s one of those meaningful coincidences: I write from the global capital of patisserie, Paris (here every pastry has a pedigree). And I write about one of India’s greatest patissieurs, Sanjana Patel. Here, not only am I eating my way through exquisite sweet creations but also doing so at maestros (Alain Ducasse, Pierre Herme et al) Sanjana’s mentors. The only difference is that Sanjana’s latest Bandra café, La Folie Lab, is not just about desserts. She has added on a savoury menu, too. I ate there twice. To double check, I invited the dapper Don of restaurateurs, Raman Macker, creator of award-winning brands (now working on international projects), and the dynamic and super-helpful Parveen Chander who spearheads a landmark hotel located in Bandra. Super-effective and efficient, Riddhi Wallia dyed-in-the-wool public relations professional, and Sanjay Menon, the knowledgeable and exuberant wine importer and distributor join in. Our review follows…
DECORWalk through a charming, tiny potted garden of herbs (which are liberally sprinkled on your food). Indoors, the compact room, the concrete herringbone flooring and wood-and-steel bar stools face a theatrical kitchen and a dessert display counter.
FOODThe sweet stuff: My earlier review still holds good. Hero #1 is the ‘100% Chocolate Cookie’, dense and moist with a dark chocolate cake base, crispy praline, bitter chocolate mousse capped off with chocolate fondant. Heroine #1, Rouge Velour (big fat, bright red rose), moist, zesty lemony sponge cake with strawberry compote. I recommend the Infinite Caramel seasalt, colourful candy cake and La Folie’s slim chocolate squares.
The savoury: A luscious, thick layer of Avocado on the tartine, flaking light croissants, Croque Monsieur (smoked ham and cheese in a croissant). Crunchy, fresh and juicy, well-dressed salads. Okayish Pulled Pork Burger, Pastas and Akuri. Superb Siphon coffee.
MINUS POINTSMany a dish unavailable (éclairs, salmon tartine). There was a sameness to many of the savoury dishes, all covered in microgreens. Soggy croissant Caprese. Ditto for the savoury Mille Feuille. Small portions but high prices. Lacklustre new dessert of Fraisier white chocolate mousse. Avoidable Asian salad and the Lebanese tartine.
MY POINTLa Folie’s sweet creations can be all at once silky and dense, light and airy. Texture is one of Sanjana Patel’s strong points and she mingles flavours astutely. But many of the savoury dishes have sameness and they disappoint.
Go for the desserts and coffee. Kudos Sanjana for your French-grounded sweet creations, which bridge the classically saucy decadence of the past and the progressive derring-do of a new generation.
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