Male-to-order

Sure men love to shop, but where and how does the truly self-indulgent man bask in himself? Today, customised couture is the bastion of male vanity, with major desi players following the suit of international ones. From the finest silk wool suits, sumptuous velvet dinner jackets trimmed with mother of pearl buttons, hand-crafted, classic English shirts, lace-up shoes in patent leather, vintage Word War II crown medal buckle belts to hand-finished ties woven using 24-carat gold thread ��� menswear dons the garb of bespoke luxury.
"Menswear thrives on customised tailoring, on the lines of the traditional men's tailors of London's Savile Row. The contemporary male species is a well-travelled, highly evolved consumer to whom the snob value of the brands is of paramount importance," according to designer Ashish Soni.
Designer David Abraham adds, "Bespoke menswear is about slender silhouettes and a more formal look. Slim trousers, slender shirts, jackets with small shoulders and narrow lapels spell understated elegance." The safari look too is making a comeback, he says.
Desi designers like Ashish Soni are beginning to offer customised wardrobe solutions too. He stresses the need to don 'just the right accessory'. "Must-haves include mock croc holdalls, premium leather laptop cases, sporty nylon totes and messenger bags in canvas with leather trims," he says.
Fashion guru Rag h u ve n d ra Rathore feels, "The army is a big inspiration. Shirts with a single loop on the shoulder in lycra or cotton mixes spell sophistication. Luxury's an intrinsic part of the nouveau riche lifestyle. It's about classic meeting Miami."
Pradeep Hirani, owner of Mumbai-based Ayamik says the attitude towards men's shopping is changing. "The Indian man is definitely much more willing today to experiment with bolder colours and haute styles."
Thanks to the willingness to enjoy the shopping trip, the uber sexual male ��� a self-confessed 'brand- slave'��� is also throwing open his doors to the world. Feeding his unflinching appetite is a bevy of heavyweight foreign brands. "The demand for luxury menswear is as strong as its female counterpart. The 20+ Indian professional is more aware of personal grooming and wants to be appropriately dressed in social circles," says Sheetal Mafatlal, who spearheaded the launch of Valentino in India. Zegna followed suit in 2007, working out the 'made-to-order' segment with the Su Misura. The client can order customised clothes in a detail-oriented process taking up to a few weeks in the Swiss Alps! The service ranges between Rs 1,10,000 and Rs 6,50,000 for a made-to-order piece.
Canali's limited edition of Esperidi suits, only 80 of which are available worldwide and the Paul Smith Bespoke experience entitles tailoring in a classical setting. English, Italian, and Scottish tweeds are custom fitted by an expert cutter, followed by two fittings over a period of six and eight weeks. The range starts from �� 2,000. Well, now you know how far you can go to perfect the cut of your cloth.