Explore the charm of Phulkari embroidery this wedding season

‘Phulkar’ is formed from two words: ‘phul’, which means flower, and ‘kari’, meaning the art. It is the traditional art form of Punjab. Originating in the 15th century, Phulkari is known for its bright textile art, which involves intricate needlework and produces the most fascinating tale of motifs. Phulkari’s legacy is deeply woven into the cultural fabric of Punjab and has even been mentioned in Waris Shah’s timeless love epic, Heer Ranjha. Some believe its origins trace back to the Vedic ages, highlighting its spiritual and historical significance.From iconic suit pieces to dupattas, women usually wear this stunning style during weddings, whereas it is considered a precious heirloom for some. Let’s explore 5 popular Phulkari patterns that every Punjabi bride must have in her trousseau.

Originating from the streets of Rawalpindi (now in Pakistan), the ghunghat bagh is heavily embroidered around the centre and the edges and is primarily seen on dupattas which are to be worn over the head. The embroidered detailing is pulled over the new bride’s face and works like an embroidered veil. Characterised by large decorated triangles with longer sides, the patterns on the fabric are a symbol of well-being, prosperity and marriage.

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Chope and Subhar Phulkari embroidery are mainly practised on bridal attires and are often seen on dupattas and scarves. Chope is characterised by its triangular embroidery motifs and is traditionally given to the bride by her paternal grandmother. On the other hand, Subhar features more central motifs with intricate four corners and has base colours of yellow thread against a red background, which signifies prosperity and fertility.

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Darshan Dwar patterns were earlier only seen in gurudwaras and were hung at the gateways, from which it eventually got its name. ‘Darshan Dwar’ means the Doorway to the Divine. Eventually this pattern found its way into the clothing segment and features arched doorway designs with human and animal figures and intricate geometric patterns.

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Sainchi Phulkari is another unique style of embroidery that depicts human and animal forms in an alluring narrative format. The meaning of ‘Sainchi’ means authentic in Punjabi, as the embroidered designs often portray real-life events or are picked from interesting folk tales. The designs often revolve around naturalistic images, motifs of crops, cattle, human figures, birds, animals, and other household items.

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Chamas Phulkari hails from the regions of Punjab, Rohtak, Hisar, and Delhi and is known for its unique design. Typically characterised by the use of mirrors sewn into the cloth, artisans play with the shades of blue, grey, and yellow thread, making the detailing visible. It involves intricate darn stitching on fabrics of cotton and silk primarily.

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