At a millinery in the heart of central London, guests gathered on Friday to experience a truly sensory presentation by the legendary British hat designer Stephen Jones. This wasn't just another fashion show; it was a whimsical exploration of hats that engaged the senses of sight, smell, and touch. Jones, famed for his collaborations with Dior and his avant-garde creations, presented an Autumn-Winter 2025 collection at London Fashion Week, featuring hats made of an eclectic mix of materials, satin, tartan, crepe, and even glass.
"What is fashion about? Is it about self-expression? Is it fun? Or is it a uniform?" Jones asked, reflecting on the concept behind his collection. The presentation was an immersive experience, with hats that were as tactile as they were visually striking. A delicate fascinator adorned with feathers floated on one display, while icy beads dangled from another, adding a sense of elegance and whimsy to the headpieces. One hat—a black satin flatcap with white piping—was described by Jones as "assured" and "fun," perfectly capturing the playful nature of his designs.
The highlight of the collection, however, was a truly unique piece, a Willy Wonka-esque top hat made entirely of chocolate. With a bite-sized hole in its crown, the hat immediately became a conversation starter. Crafted in collaboration with Paris-based patissier Jana Lai, this confectionery masterpiece could even be worn. Jones shared that he had already received an order for the hat from a woman who intended to wear it to her birthday party, though he jokingly noted, "Not somewhere too hot, though."
Jones's hats are synonymous with both elegance and eccentricity, having graced the heads of fashion royalty and celebrities for over four decades. His creations have ranged from plush berets for Princess Diana to towering headdresses on Dior runways, all of which are now featured in his retrospective "Stephen Jones, Chapeaux d'Artiste" at the Palais Galliera in Paris. The exhibition celebrates over 170 of his iconic designs, showcasing his evolution as a milliner.
Jones, 67, was born near Liverpool and later moved to London, where his passion for millinery took root. He recalls his first hat—a creation made from a cereal box and scraps from his sister’s blouse—crafted during his time at Central Saint Martins. Since then, he has gone on to design some of the most extraordinary headwear in the fashion world. His influence, however, extends far beyond just hats. Jones has collaborated with renowned designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Comme des Garçons, with his creations worn by A-list celebrities like Rihanna, who sported one of his elaborately embellished bishop's mitres at the 2018 Met Gala.
For Jones, fashion is all about celebrating life. "Everything else can be super serious, but fashion and hats need to be about celebrating life," he said, adding that this sense of playfulness is especially important in times of global uncertainty. "Fashion lets you control how you get dressed in the morning," he mused, emphasizing the empowering nature of self-expression through style.
Jones’s designs have become more than just fashionable accessories—they are talismans of individuality and hope. "People wear jackets, tailoring, and shoes, but a hat is a great way to show your individuality," he explained. His hats serve as a statement of personality, offering a unique way to express one's identity. Despite his decades of experience dressing fashion icons, Jones revealed that he still hasn’t made a hat for Britain’s Queen Camilla. "Maybe one day," he said with a smile, suggesting that the future could hold even more iconic creations.
As for how he continues to innovate after 45 years in the business, Jones’s secret lies in his own life experiences. "I live my life, and I put it into a hat," he said, a testament to his ability to channel personal inspiration into his designs. With each collection, he continues to push the boundaries of millinery, ensuring that his creations remain a source of joy, inspiration, and individuality for those lucky enough to wear them.