Inside the jewellery vaults of Indian royal families: Iconic head ornaments that owned the moment

If you think head ornaments were worn only for a majestic look in royal darb​ars, then you are mistaken, as they reflected righteousness, victory, triumph, and power. The heavier and more bejewelled the head ornament, the higher the rank. This was followed by one’s wealth index, and ultimately, a social hierarchy was created. The designs usually included precious metals like gold, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls, and more. Let’s take a look at some magnificent head ornaments worn by Indian royal families that certainly deserve your attention.

The majestic Sikh Empire was formed under Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s leadership, who was also known as Sher-e-Punjab, i.e., the ‘Lion of Punjab’. He was often seen wearing the Koh-i-Noor diamond as an armband and the famed Timur Ruby. By decorating their turbans with unique gemstones like rubies, sapphires, diamonds, and more, the warrior kings looked surreal, and their adorned turbans appeared absolutely magnificent in pictures. Head ornaments were not just adorned by Maharajas but were also worn by Maharanis as brooches. Post India’s independence, a majority of these jewels belonged to Maharani Jind Kaur, who also owned a 19th-century gouache set on a silver ivory brooch.
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The Maharaja of Kapurthala, HH Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, ascended the throne at the young age of five. He received the title of Maharaja in 1911 and was often seen wearing the Kapurthala State Tiara, also known as the Hamilton Tiara. One cannot overlook the strands of natural pearls attached to it, which redefined the allure of royalty. His ceremonial tiara was commissioned by Cartier and included large emeralds with platinum detailing and white diamonds, set in a European style.
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HH Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Sahib was a great connoisseur of French art de vivre and culture, making him an important figure for the jewellery houses of Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix. He once wished to find an appropriate piece of jewellery worthy of a royal wedding to which he was invited and requested a magnificent enamel and diamond peacock aigrette from Mellerio. This piece blended Indian influence with Western design and was crafted in 1905. He wore it on his turban at the royal wedding, and later it was passed on to his wife, who used it as a hair ornament.
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The first Maharaja of Patiala, Baba Ala Singh, passed his wealth and jewels to the last ruling Maharaja of Patiala, Maharaja Yadavindra Singh. His white turban featured a ruby-set gold sarpech adorned with 133 diamonds, 15 Burmese rubies, and a large natural pearl from the collection of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. The back of the sarpech showcases intricate craftsmanship with red foliate motifs and green-blue enamel detailing. This stunning sarpech was sold at Christie’s in 1999.
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The Nawab of Rampur possessed a jewellery collection estimated to be almost equal in value to the Baroda Jewels and believed to be thrice the value of the collection held by the Maharaja of Jaipur. Nawab Raza Ali Khan made a crown of diamonds and pearls for himself and also commissioned renowned jewellers like Cartier, Chaumet, Mellerio, and Boucheron to craft precious and intricate designs that looked surreal. His Begum, Rajmata Rafat Jamani, was also seen wearing a spectacular diamond tiara and necklace, studded with gold and large diamonds, which was worn as a head passa or jhoomar.
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