This Indo-Bangla sari war can be good for both sides

On Jan 2, India granted West Bengal’s Tangail sari a geographical indication (GI) tag. Tangail is a district in Bangladesh, and the sari had originated there in the British period, but its mostly Hindu weavers moved to India at the time of Partition. Consequently, Tangail saris are woven on both sides of the border.The Indian action had a sharp reaction in Bangladesh. On Thursday, Feb 8, Bangladesh’s Department of Patents, Designs and Trademarks (DPDT) recognised Tangail sari as a GI product of their country. medium107973149 It’s not the first time both countries have become entangled in a sari. India had registered the ‘Uppada Jamdani’ sari as a GI product in 2009, and in 2016, Jamdani was recognised as a GI product of Bangladesh as well. But after the latest round of back-to-back GI announcements, weavers in both countries are left wondering how the tags will benefit them.A Tangled HistoryThe Tangail sari, known for its unique designs, motifs and weaving technique, originated in Pathrail, Nolshodha and Gharinda villages of Tangail district. The Basak community of weavers, who created this sari, was originally based in Dhamrai and Chauhatta areas of Dhaka district around 1850. They relocated after zamindars of Delduar, Santosh and Gharinda areas in Tangail offered them patronage. After Partition in 1947 and Bangladesh Liberation War in 1971, these weavers migrated to Nadia and East Bardhaman in West Bengal, making those areas another Tangail weaving hub. medium107973153‘Retail Prices May Rise’Amin Mohammad Tajul Islam, deputy director of Bangladesh’s DPDT, told TOI: “The place of origin is very important for GI tagging. For Banarasi sari, I don’t need to say anything since the name Banaras is there in the sari itself. So it is with Tangail. The name of our district is attached to the sari.” He didn’t say if Bangladesh would challenge India’s GI tag for Tangail.Ariful Hasan Shuvo, a Dhaka-based journalist who has been following this story closely, told TOI, “In terms of Tangail sari, I think we’ve been hit by cultural sentiment. Jamdani was our first GI product to get registered in 2016. Despite holding the status, it continues to encounter challenges in reaching customers compared with other GI products from different countries.” For Tangail sari, he says, Dhaka should use the GI tag as an opportunity.Islam said the GI tag would serve as an incentive to Tangail weavers. “This tool has to be capitalised by business communities along with government bodies.” He said saris bearing the GI tag could fetch 20-30% more in the international market compared with untagged weaves.‘No Effect On Wholesale’Prasanta Basak, wholesaler of Tangail saris in Kolkata, said, “Weavers of our saris came from Tangail and are now based in Phulia, Nabadwip and Samudragarh. We are aware of the battle over GI. Having the tag might not allow others to claim ownership, but it doesn’t change market economics in India. Our wholesale rates remain the same. Price is decided based on cost, and the tag won’t change that.”Yet, weavers on both sides are happy with the tag. Raghunath Basak, a weaver based in Tangail district, told TOI, “It is our duty to preserve our heritage. This GI tag will show my children that we tried.”Padma awardee weaver Biren Krishna Basak welcomed the tags for both countries. “This is great news for Tangail saris collectively. Our handloom weavers are going extinct. It takes two days to weave a handloom sari while a power loom can produce 32 saris a day. Unfortunately, buyers can’t differentiate between handloom and power loom saris and don’t want to pay for the effort and time spent to produce handloom saris. This GI tag is for handloom. Power loom saris should also be tagged to mark the difference.”Weaver Gouranga Basak, who is based in Bengal’s Dhatrigram and sends saris to Phulia, said, “Most saris are now made on power looms. With this GI tag, the impetus will return to hand-woven saris. Post Covid-19, they had almost become extinct. My sole income was as a weaver but the situation got so difficult that I had to take up a second job.”The handloom at his residence made way for a power loom that his wife now uses. But his brother and father-in-law still weave on a handloom. The GI tag, he is hoping, will make handloom saris more valuable. He is already thinking of reinstalling handlooms at his residence.