Snow, Kangris and Pherans: How Kashmir adapts to the rhythm of Chillai Kalan — inside the 40-day spell

"Gar firdaus bar-rue zamin ast, hami asto, hamin asto, hamin ast" -- the timeless line, attributed by many to Amir Khusrau and famously used by Mughal Emperor Jahangir, resurfaces each winter as Kashmir enters its harshest yet most enchanting period -- Chillai Kalan. And as the Valley embraces this 40-day stretch of biting cold, this Persian phrase feels more fitting.

A valley draped in white

Snow-laden rooftops of the houses, frost-crusted deodar and chinar trees, Kashmiris in pherans with smoky kangris tucked insde, the Valley transforms into a scenic postcard during Chillai Kalan. Srinagar's Jewel -- Dal Lake freezes around the edges, its shikaras scraping gently through thin sheets of ice, while cracks form over the vast span of Wular Lake in Bandipora. Migratory birds flee frostbitten homelands in Siberia, China, and Central Asia, to find refuge in Kashmir's wetlands, adding life to its winter quiet.

As 2026 begins, the grandeur of the Kashmir Valley is in the grip of Chillaii-Kalan, a 40-day spell of the harshest, and the most defining phase of winter, the region experiences each year.


Kashmir's winter unfolds in three distinct phases: Chillai Kalan, Chillai Khurd, and Chillai Bachha. It begins with the 40-day Chillai Kalan (December 21–January 31), the harshest period of cold. This is followed by the 20-day Chillai Khurd (January 31–February 19), or "small cold," and concludes with the 10-day Chillai Bachha (February 20–March 2), or "baby cold."

Each phase brings biting temperatures, snowfall, and frozen rivers and lakes, playing a vital role in replenishing the Valley’s water resources.

The Valley takes on a new dimension of beauty under a pristine blanket of snow, with green meadows, apple orchards, and winding highways to the upper reaches of the Great Himalayas and Pir Panjal range all dusted in white.

Kashmir, already one of the world's most sought-after tourist destinations, becomes even more captivating during this period. Travel enthusiasts flock to witness fresh snowfall, feel the intense winter chill, and listen to the rustle of icy winds whipping through the mountains, adding a dramatic rhythm to the serene landscape.

Tourists return in full strength

Winter is traditionally Kashmir's most dramatic season, but this year, the Valley is witnessing a remarkable inflow of visitors. Gulmarg has been reporting almost 100% occupancy, with the Tourism Department lining up events across Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Pahalgam and Dodhpathri to meet demand.

Hotels across Srinagar, Pahalgam and Gulmarg are filled for the first time in months.

Altaf Ahmad, a hotel general manager in Gulmarg, told IANS: "We are completely sold out this time."

'Chillai Kalan rules like a king'

For many locals, this winter is not just a season but the opening of opportunities to earn livelihood as Kashmir sees heavy footfall of tourists during this time.

A resort owner in Pahalgam, Taufique Butt, reflects on Chillai Kalan and describes it in Kashmiri.

"Chillai Kalan gov panun hukmbar," meaning Chillai Kalan rules like a king.
His resort, like others in the scenic town of Pahalgam and on the banks of Lidder River, has no vacant rooms left.

"Sir, the situation here is quite overwhelming. Tourists from all over India are coming to see the snow… All our hotels, resorts, and lodges are overbooked. People are arriving with online pre-bookings."

The scars of last April's terror attack in Baisaran briefly dented the tourist flow, he said, especially around Pahalgam. But Aru, Betaab and Chandanwari — the ABC of Pahalgam, which are key destinations soon triggered visitors returning in large numbers.

Fresh snowfall after the New Year renewed excitement, particularly at Aru and Betaab Valley, known to many as the filming sites of Bajrangi Bhaijaan.

Winter tale

Ujjwal Kant, visiting from Sonepur in Bihar, had just returned from skiing and gondola rides in Gulmarg when he described the mystical mornings of Chillai Kalan:

He added: "I actually came hoping to experience Chillai Kalan, and it's been unforgettable… frozen streams, quiet valleys, and almost postcard-like mornings. We had to modify our plans a bit because roads open late and highways saw traffic jam, yet that hasn't stopped tourists."

The snow Kashmir waits for

For Kashmiris, Chillai Kalan or intense winter is as much about survival as celebration. The season's snowfall replenishes the high-altitude water reservoirs that feed rivers of the Valley -- Jhelum, Indus, Chenab etc, streams and lakes through summer. This makes the daily life and survival challenging.

Snow after January 30 melts too fast to serve this purpose, which is why the first snowfall of Chillai Kalan is greeted like a festival.

Life slows, culture deepens

Srinagar resident and shawl seller Shafique Chaudhary says the season brings a special kind of joy.

"Chillai Kalan has really tightened its grip this year. Daily routines slow down because mornings are painfully cold and water lines freeze often. But people here are used to adjusting — we layer up, start work later, and rely more on kangris.:

He added, "The harsh cold also brings a certain calm to the city, something only winter in Kashmir can create."

He described the familiar winter scene: pherans, kangris, streets filled with bundled-up locals, and constant cups of kahwa and noon chai keeping people going.

Frozen Dal Lake, and curious travellers

Gulfam Beigh, a Shikara operator on Dal Lake, captures the essence of winter in Srinagar through the eyes of both locals and visitors.

He said, "Chillai Kalan means fewer hours on the water because parts of Dal Lake start icing up early. But tourists still come for the experience. They’re fascinated by the thin ice sheets along the edges."

"Work is tougher -- hands go numb quickly -- yet this season has its own magic. The quietness of winter draws serious travellers," he added.

Drivers on slippery roads

Anantnag-based driver Mohammad Zaheer feels the winter both helps and challenges him: "For us drivers, Chillai Kalan is both a challenge and a boost… Roads are slippery in the mornings… But tourist pickups have increased because they want to explore snow spots."

He added, "Business stays steady, though we spend more on heaters and maintenance. The cold tests everyone, but it also brings visitors who appreciate Kashmir's winter charm."

Inside the snowbound frontlines

As the bone-chilling winter descends upon the Himalayas and the 40-day Chillai Kalan grips Jammu and Kashmir, ANI sources in the defence establishment said the Army has stepped-up counterterror actions across Kishtwar and Doda districts, just south of the Valley.

Undeterred by freezing temperatures, treacherous terrain, and heavy snowfall, Army units have expanded into higher, snowbound areas to pursue Pakistani terrorists attempting to exploit the harsh season for concealment.

"This winter marks a decisive shift in operational approach," said a source. "Instead of reducing activities, the Army has adopted a proactive winter posture, establishing temporary bases and surveillance posts deep within snow-covered areas to maintain continuous pressure on potential terrorist hideouts."

A key feature of this year’s counter-terror strategy is the integrated approach. The Army is leading a synchronized effort with multiple security and law enforcement agencies, including the Civil Administration, Jammu and Kashmir Police, CRPF, SOG, Forest Guards, and Village Defence Guards. "This inter-agency cooperation ensures seamless intelligence sharing, resource optimisation, and sharper operational execution," the source added.

Intelligence from multiple agencies is carefully analysed to map terrorist movements and hideouts. Once verified, coordinated operations are launched, minimising overlaps and maximising impact. About 30 to 35 Pakistani terrorists are currently in the Jammu region, and intelligence suggests they have shifted to higher and mid-mountain areas, now largely uninhabited. "These terrorists are believed to be seeking temporary winter hideouts to evade detection," the source said.

Reports indicate remnants of these groups are attempting to coerce villagers for shelter and food, but their local support has sharply declined. Continuous security vigilance and isolation have restricted their ability to regroup or plan attacks.

The forces are focused on two goals:

The Army in this winter is focused on two goals -- eliminate remaining terrorist pockets and ensure they remain limited and restricted to inhospitable high-altitude areas. "Security forces have launched concurrent operations along valleys, mid-altitude regions, and high ridges to maintain overlapping control and deny any potential movement corridor," said the source. Each operation is followed by sustained surveillance, forming the "surveillance-sweep-surveillance" cycle, the cornerstone of the Army's new winter doctrine.

Snowbound terrain makes the whole task of Army operation challenging, and it requires specialised training and equipment also. "The Indian Army has deployed specially trained winter warfare sub-units adept in high-altitude survival, snow navigation, avalanche response, and snow combat," the ANI source said. These troops have been crucial in maintaining operational effectiveness during the winter surge.

Snow, orchards, birds

Snowfall during Chillai Kalan delivers essential "chilling hours" that sustain Kashmir’s apple orchards, a backbone of its economy.

And with its lakes freezing at the edges and wetlands opening up, the Valley has recorded a huge influx of migratory birds this winter, escaping harsher climates elsewhere.
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