They add 'face value' to Kollywood

A film shoot begins with make up and ends with pack-up! This is a common refrain in the industry . Together with costume designerscostumers and hair dressers, makeup persons enhance the look of the artiste, and this is why most stars hold these professionals in high regard. So much so, that there was a time when artistes used to fall at the feet of their makeup person before starting shoot, says Kuppusamy, who has been working in the industry since 1971. ���I began my journey in the industry as an assistant director. However, seeing the kind of respect that makeup persons like Rangasamy, Peethambaram, Ramanna, Appu sir and Manickam annan commanded from the stars of that time, I became enamoured of this profession and decided to become a makeup man,��� says Kuppusamy, who has worked on over 200 films, including Singam, Singam II, Poojai, Kirumi and Sethupathi.

But back then, getting into this branch was extremely tough. ���I went to Subramania Rao, who did makeup for both Tamil and Hindi films. Seeing my interest, he agreed to give me a card, and took me in as an assistant.���

Today, it is quite easy to become a makeup person, he adds. While there are those who work for films (called company makeup men), there are others who work with specific stars (called personal assistants), and take the full responsibility of a star's look in the entire film. Veerasekar, who has been working as a makeup person for stars from Nagma to Nikki Galrani, says that choosing what they want to be depends on the individual technician. ���For me, after working with Nagma, I started working for Jyotika.Then, I worked with Asin, Trisha and Priya Mani among others. Now, I'm predominantly working with Nikki and Surbhi. So, I've really not had the time to focus on entire films, though I've done a few early in my career,��� he says.

Giri, who is the nephew of Peethambaram, MGR's personal makeup man, is one of those makeup persons who have straddled both these worlds. Having started his career in 1976, he has been a personal assistant to actors like Radha, Suriya, Sakthi Vasu, and has also worked on the films of director P Vasu (Peethambaram's son), 36 Vayadhinile, Irudhi Suttru and portions of 24, which were shot in Chennai. Giri, who has won the Tamil Nadu state award for Best Makeup in 2000, says, ���When you are the personal assistant to a star, you have that gethu that you are moving in close circles with the star. The pay , too, is somewhat higher than what you would get as a company makeup man. But the latter has its benefits. The company makeup man is the one who will be credited first in the titles, and if the film wins an award, that goes only to that person.���

Talking about the most important qualities that a makeup person should have, Raja, who won the National Award for his work in Balaji Sakthivel's Vazhakku Enn 189, considers effective management of time and material as crucial. ���It is not just about applying powder as it is popularly believed. Makeup involves technique and there is a method to go about it,��� he says.

A makeup person must know how an injury might look like at different stages and involves creativity . It mostly involves mixing black and red colours, but to what ratio you mix them is most important, and can make or break the look. ���You have to use different techniques depending on the nature of the shoot -indoor or outdoor, morning or night and so on. If it's indoor, the makeup need not be bright because the light will be controlled and even minimal makeup will stand out.Outdoors, you have apply slightly extra makeup to compensate for skin getting tanned because of sunlight,��� elaborates Kuppusamy .

The makeup person needs at least one to one-and-a-half hour's time before the shot to get an artiste ready , says Sekar.���Timing is very important. I did the makeup for Trisha in Aayitha Ezhuthu.Mani Ratnam sir liked to shoot in the early morning light, as it would be soft.So, I used to go to Trisha's place by 4.30am and do her makeup,��� he recalls and adds that a makeup person should be expected to do his work at any place. ���Sometimes, we get the artiste ready in the hotel itself; in locations, today , we have caravans where we can work in peace, but earlier, I would get the job done wherever there is some shade or soft light,��� he says. For the look test, which is done in pre-production, they either do it at a studio or at the office set up for the film.

Nowadays, cameras have become so advanced that one can shoot even without makeup and make a person look good. ���In our industry , now, we have started using makeup that is closer to the skin tone of the artiste,��� says Kuppusamy , who adds, ���Today , we have HD makeup, which almost gives the impression that no material has been used. With permanent makeup, you can permanently enhance the eyebrows, lips, skin tone and so on.There is also liquid makeup.��� Imported wax, sculpted gel, silicon, latex and fake blood are other materials that a makeup person needs to have in their kit. ���My kit comprises 15 boxes and I take them all to the shooting spot as you never know when you might need something,��� says Kuppusamy . Sekar says that when the makeup person, costume designer and the hairdresser work in coordination, they can create stunning looks. Generally , the makeup is done first followed by the costume and hair dressing, he adds.

Curiously , Raja, who says that film offers started going down after he won the National Award, feels that the respect for the craft has dwindled over the years.���Today , it has become fashionable for filmmakers to hire makeup persons from Mumbai and abroad. These technicians are able to get better budget and better payment compared to those who have been working in the industry . They are provided with whatever they ask, whereas we are told to work under the budget and make do with what is available,��� he says. Today , he's also working in TV in addition to films.

However, Sekar feels that the trend of using Mumbai-based makeup persons isn't wrong, per se. ���It came about mainly because most of our heroines are from Mumbai, and they bring in a makeup person whom they are comfortable working with,��� he says.

Despite being in the profession for many years, these makeup persons feel that there is still a lot to learn. They keep updating themselves with latest makeup techniques and trends through books and YouTube. ���I have done films in Tamil, Telugu, Hindi, Malayalam, Kannada, and even in English and Sinhalese. Whatever I have learnt, it is mostly from the people whom I assisted. In addition to that, I continuously keep myself updated by reading books for makeup professionals. But even after all these years, I think I have not learnt it all. There is still a vast amount that I need to learn in this field,��� concludes Kuppusamy .