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‘Mughal-e-Azam’, ‘Umrao Jaan’, and ‘Padmaavat’: How Bollywood costumes bring every era to life

TOI Entertainment Desk
| ETimes.in | Last updated on - Oct 7, 2025, 12:00 IST
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1/5

‘Mughal-e-Azam’

One very memorable classic is Mughal-e-Azam, well known for its aesthetic of royal and extravagant ensemble-driven fashion. This is successful because in the film all the splendour of the Mughal court was realised through embroidery, drapery and elaborate accessory design in a way that mirrored the incredible sophistication of that period at the Mughal court. Anarkali's appealingly draped, lightweight textile, where colour and movement are present, stood in contrast to the heaviness of the royal garments characterizing engaged visual frames. The awesomeness of costume marked character status, which creates knowledge of romantic, political, and rebellious narratives that are also considerable in the art of the time.

2/5

‘Umrao Jaan’

In 'Umrao Jaan,' clothing features prominently in demonstrating the elegance, femininity, and cultural richness of 19th-century Lucknow. The courtesan's world is depicted through sumptuous lehengas, ghararas, and plenty of jewelry. The soft pastel colors, surface texture of embroidery, and the sensitivity of sheerness of draping indicate both graceful actions and the sorrows of life while establishing a larger sense of place within a time tragically lost to us. The film uses costume design, in relation to color, outside details, to communicate character feelings, interactions, and intentions, and expectations of the society and zeitgeist of that place.

3/5

‘Jodhaa Akbar’

'Jodhaa Akbar' is a bright exhibition of color and costumes, which tells history as much as the dialogue. Heavy embroidered lehengas worn with regal turbans and plenty of jewelry adorn the glory of Rajput and Mughal clothing. Designers intentionally chose colors, textures, and silhouettes of clothing to signify cultural authenticity and royal representation. Each costume represents political alliances, personal relationships, and the meaning of ceremony to move the story to invite the viewer into the luxuries of aesthetics and etiquette in time, while also building and creating Jodhaa and Akbar as a heroic love story.

4/5

‘Bajirao Mastani’

The costumes in ‘Bajirao Mastani’ represent a fantastic union of historical reality and cinematic illusion. Bajirao’s warrior costumes, Mastani’s lehengas, and Kashibai’s minimalism convey hierarchy, power, and region. The clothing conveys time and place through the color palette, wine and silver embroidery customized on each garment, and regional draping. Within the larger narrative trajectory that tied collectively, every costume functioned to intensify and emotional nature of the story. Each time a character appeared on screen wearing clothing that conveyed gravity with their clothing, the audience is continuously exposed to their character's personality and journey.

5/5

‘Padmaavat’

In ‘Padmaavat’, costumes evolve from costumes to a storytelling tool that communicates the sensation of royalty, bravery, and cultural pride. The costumes associated with Rani Padmavati include rich and luxurious silk, Zardozi work, and a lively color palette. In contrast, Alauddin Khilji's costumes convey powerful and threatening through fabrics, colors, and elegant detailing. Whether through the types and colors of turbans or jewels worn, the authenticity of the Rajput culture is conveyed, even if it cannot be fully understood. Through the costumes, the film transports audiences back into the grandeur of the past of medieval India, through meticulous historical research, artistic representation, and cinematic drama to develop memorable visual characters.

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Copyright © May 28, 2026, 09.54PM IST Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd. All rights reserved. For reprint rights: Times Syndication Service