Kayastha flavours take centrestage steeped in stories and lots of spice

Kayastha cuisine, where Mughal artistry meets homely warmth, received a rare celebration in the city last weekend. Curated by Gormei and hosted at the Glenburn Penthouse, Chef Devyani Bhatnagar and her husband, storyteller Shan Bhatnagar, unveiled family treasures at a food pop-up, pairing them with palate cleansers for a gathering eager to taste regional heritage.Where spice meets storyThe evening opened with sharp, spiced Kachhe Aam ka panna and a relish platter of tangy Aam ki laungi, smoky Mirchi ki tipore, and Lehsun ki chutney. Kaache gosht ke kebab carried perfect dhungar smokiness. The star of the meal was the spicy Jungle chicken crostini, flavoured with Mathania mirch and ghee. To cool down the spice, a glass of Gulab ka sherbat with Chenin Blanc was brought out. It reset the palate with freshness before the mains. The Zafrani murgh was paired elegantly with soft Dosti roti, while on the vegetarian side, meaty-bite Kathal ki sabji, tangy-light Mangochi ki sabji, and tamarind- and yogurt-tempered Dahi pakodi drew approving nods.Voices from the tableFor some, the evening stirred nostalgia; for others, it was pure discovery. Animal activist Seema Mohan Chandran lauded the flawless vegetarian spread, calling the revival of heirloom recipes “applause-worthy.” Gourmet enthusiast Paridhi Parasramka highlighted the Urad sookhi dal and makhana kheer as standouts, noting that, coming from a Marwari home, the flavours felt “authentic and familiar.” Ashutosh Bagla relished the smoky kebabs paired with wine. Foodie Aditya Jain raved about the lehsun chutney, saying such depth “isn’t found in Delhi or Mumbai,” while food enthusiast Ridhima Jain summed it up best: “Kolkata’s dining scene is evolving fast — pop-ups like this now rival those in bigger metros.”Food brought me here – my love for it and my desire to support my wife to weave stories around it as she cooks. We are offering experiences you won’t find in any restaurants– Shan Bhatnagar, storyteller and menu curatorThese are my family’s recipes. Our ancestors worked in royal courts, bringing Mughlai influences into our kitchen. My aim now is to bring that heritage to Kolkata– Devyani Bhatnagar, chef