In poll season, iconic Kolkata eateries get majority (s)eats

Can you imagine one of Kolkata’s oldest pice hotels delivering food to guests staying in city five-stars? That’s the unlikely but telling food trend emerging in the city this election season. As expat voters, media crews, VVIP politicians and officials land in town for the elections, what they are eating, and how they are sourcing food is shaping a parallel narrative – because in Kolkata, food and politics have always shared the same table.

Takeaway town
Restaurants across the city are busy packing food for deliveries. Lake Market-based pice hotel Tarun Niketan is catering to a growing number of orders, especially from city five stars. “Everything is being packed and sent out; no one’s dining in,” says Amarnath Deb, the fifth-generation owner, adding that they haven’t changed the menu in any way. Siddharth Kothari of Peter Cat and Mocambo says a substantial amount of packing is happening at the restaurants. “Most of the food is being picked up by those on election duty,” he adds.

Expat voters find comfort in familiar flavours
As more voters are reaching the city, it’s clear that they are keen to reconnect with familiar tastes. “We’re delighted that people flying in to vote are also ordering their favourites from us. It feels so nice when they say they’ve grown up relishing our products and want to taste them again,” says Alisha Alexander of Saldanha bakery.
Outside Vardaan Market, the election buzz has spilled onto the streets – food being the hero. “Many expats are pausing here to revisit flavours they grew up with – from quick bites to familiar street-side staples,” a puckha vendor outside the market tells us. “It’s a scene that captures the city perfectly – conversations and power playing out over comfort food,” adds a soda shop owner.

The Park Street buzz
Park Street is buzzing with visitors despite the heat. “At a time like this, Kolkata becomes as much a cultural hub as it is a political one,” says Rajesh Singh of Flurys, adding that at their Park Street outlet, visitors are opting for favourites such as Darjeeling tea, Chicken mustard sandwiches and lemon tart, along with summer coolers. The scene is similar across legacy restaurants. “Many of them have a security detail. It’s quite evident that they are here on official duty,” says Kothari, adding that there’s no set pattern to what they order though like Chelo kebab, Devilled crab and Prawn cocktail continue to dominate orders.

The mandatory sweet stop
Partho Nandy of Girish Chandra Dey & Nakur Chandra Nandy tells us that he believes that many of those who are here for the elections are visiting their store to experience Kolkata’s heritage offerings. “Mishti is something they simply can’t miss,” he says, adding that delicacies such as Badami, Guti monohara, Chandrapuli and varieties of sondesh are in high demand. “People are asking for the best sweets and often ask us to pack them carefully so that they can take them back with them when they leave town.”

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